Hello All: I have a 1948 d318 stationary engine powering my sawmill. It has an overcenter clutch with a large diameter shaft that I know rides in a pilot bearing in the flywheel, then must be splined to fiction plate then goes thru the "throw-out" bushing(actuated by lever) then goes thru two pillow bearings on either side of the drive pulley. The bearings bolt thru the main frame of the powerhead. I need to rebuild the two bearing as they are growling and getting hot. Does anyone know if the whole assembly will just slide out of the flywheel/clutch without taking the clutch apart? I tried pulling the shaft away from the motor but it does not move. I will try to post some pics of what I got. Tx

 

www.crowsnest.us/images/DCP_0463.JPG
www.crowsnest.us/caterpillar/D318_page_3.htm

here is one that looks exactly like yours. you could always try to contact them since they have done it already

Clutch cover has to come off and the whole clutch and shaft comes out as an assembly. (Big nut on the inner end holds it all together).
According to my parts book the clutch and pillow block arrangement does not use a pilot bearing in the flywheel.

  Thank you. Yes whole assembly is captured by 6 cotter pins thru 6 pins that are part of flywheel. The bearings are self aligning double row ball bearings-now skf 2312… cost $500/pop but applied industrial assured me these are not made in the far east

Good choice on the SKF bearings. We use them exclusively where I work and we get up to four times the life out of them compared to other brands with the exception of Timken.
SKF have factories all over the globe including China and Malaysia. Most bearings come from France, England, USA, Germany, Switzerland and Austria. Some of the explorer ball bearings are made in China and Malaysia and a lot of the bearing spacers and taper sleeves as well but I assume you are using spherical roller bearings which are made in Europe mostly.

I'd recommend a shaft to flywheel alignment check in order to get maximum life out of the Thermoid Couplings.

OM has a very good point.

Thanks for that advice. I was thinking of how to check the alignment with any precision… there were shims under the middle bearing which will likely go back where they were. I am going to watch the flywheel pins as they come thru the torque plate rubbers to verify they are centered in the holes. Is there a better procedure for verifying alignment?

Same procedure as the D6 8U/9U with dry clutch....

Thanks for the pages from the manual. Looks like the bore alignment is pretty straightforward. I’ll try to post a pic.