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Refurbish D2 track frames and pivot shaft

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2 years 9 months ago #234140 by juiceman
Yee gads Neil. The 18,xxx that went to Brian M. was not even remotely in that condition. There are enough on the West Coast, unfortunate that you live on the opposite side of the US.
Had you came out here as planned a couple years ago, I am sure you would have purchased something to take home. If resources allow, next project here will be a 5 roller D2. JM

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2 years 9 months ago #234153 by neil
Thanks JM, if there were a pair of good condition frames available over your way, I would not bat an eyelid at paying a pretty penny to get them over here.

I was concerned that Cat in their usual wisdom used some wacky c-channel size for the frame rails (mine measured 5" on the base, 1.885 on one leg which is a standard size (C5x9) but the bottom leg is 2.450 which is not a standard size, however I think I can use the C5 x 9 and then maybe add a 1/4 plate to the bottom leg for a bit more beef. I know it's not the same as making the leg longer by 1/2" but I think welding an extra 1/2" on might not do anything because maybe the welding softens up the existing steel a bit. Anyway, I think brand new C5x9 is going to be way better than what I currently have

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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2 years 9 months ago #234154 by restore49
Neil: Welcome to templates. Mine was a 933 much more involved with the mounts. I just cut off what I needed to reuse including the pivot tube. The channel size only needs to come close -picked mine up at a local scrap yard USA common steel - only concerned with roller and front idler level on bottom and the top will take care of itself. After having done it would never consider trying to patch up rust. Welcome to call if I can help. Need to have at work height and be able to rotate. Used 7018 and need to counter bend channel (3/4"or so) before welding 1/4" plate on back side. I did not prebend enough and had to take 20 min. to straighten. Piece of cake! Bob

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2 years 9 months ago - 2 years 9 months ago #234155 by restore49
Tacked the c channel to h beam with pivots on each end while welded in plate - this is how I added the arch to compensate for shrinkage. Still sprang past dead straight when I cut the tacks.
Last edit: 2 years 9 months ago by restore49.

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2 years 9 months ago #234156 by kittyman1
that looks great Bob...amazing what can be fabbed using angle/channel iron and misc pieces and 7018...and always be ready for the heat to twist things around...much better than trying to save a frame too far gone

Greatest Lie told to mankind: just give us 2 weeks to flatten the curve!

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2 years 9 months ago #234182 by neil
Thanks for this info Bob. My channels don't have that plate on the inside of the channel. There are just the pivot shaft tube, the curved piece beneath the recoil spring, and then it has three lateral braces which I think would take care of a lot of shrinkage from the curved piece. I was thinking of using a cutoff blade to get the curved piece to a regular size then running a bead along the sides to get it "back to size". For the channel leg size, it only matters for the slides on the idler mounts to sit properly, so the size of the bottom leg doesn't matter as regards that. I presume Cat just had it made bigger for additional strength on the idler forks.
When I studied the frames a bit more, the plate that sits forward of the pivot shaft tube could easily be approximated using pieces of flat - it doesn't have to be a pressed piece. Technically the curved piece under the recoil spring could also be made from flat but I'll wager my guy has a spare piece of round he could put in the press.
I'll still patch up the old frame because I know that building a new set will take longer than we have til the spring plow days so it'll keep the tractor mobile in the meantime until the new one's ready

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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2 years 9 months ago #234184 by dpendzic
I agree. those frames appear to be well toasted!!

D2, D3, D4, D6, 941B, Cat 15
Hancock Ma and Moriches NY

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2 years 9 months ago #234188 by neil
Agreed they look like crap but I was pushing brush and small trees over pretty hard with it and they held up, so I think they're a lot stronger than they look : )

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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2 years 9 months ago - 2 years 9 months ago #234195 by restore49
No inner plate - half my fabrication time was the plate!!!!!!!!!! Sounds like you have to replace 3/4 of the rusted steel - repair the idler slide points - and several braces. Then you need to weld a heavy piece on the bottom to make up for shorter D3 idlers (taller c channel would do this). I understand your need to get her going - would bet you a T bone your time would be the same if not less you would have a lifetime fabrication and you would not have to remove again???? Hell, I would drive out and help if you were close. Bob
Last edit: 2 years 9 months ago by restore49.

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2 years 9 months ago #234196 by Mike Meyer
The problem with trying to save toasted track frames on a top end rebuild, is not just the extra time and expense of the engineering and panel beating, but its the badly rusted pock marked steel you are left with that looks crappy under a nice paint job, it really detracts from all the hard work.

I had a similar problem with my D4 7J track frames and tried a body fill bog to tidy the holes, but in the tough environment the old Cat works in, the auto body filling bog I tried, was not really up to the job, in hindsight the preference would have been to find some better frames. Remember Sarah Palin saying you can put lipstick on a pig, but a pig is still a pig.......

There are a million trucks a day driving from the west coast back east, so finding room on one for a couple of little D2 track frames shouldn't be hard.
Mike

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