Ok, my parts book is a late one, I know the 17A's had the two piece also.

Looking to do a test fire tomorrow. Due to the time sitting, I'd like to throw out the compression release for a bit. Curious if this machine has that? Could anyone verify? There is a nut in place where the decomp lever would go, but I am not sure if that is even active or not?

That parts list I posted shows the compression release coupling assembly so there's a pretty good chance the decompression system is intact.

Great! I did notice my parts book includes all the decomp gear so I will give that a go tomorrow.

I do have one concern before a test. I noticed the injector nozzle, when reinstalling, the tip was just a little loose. It seemed to be threaded onto the body and there was a splined washer on the OD that seemed to keep the injector of being able to rotate. I turned the nozzle tip about 1/4 turn and it tightened back up to the body. I guess i should have asked about this before assembly but I don't have any info on those to know if what I did was appropriate or not. I concluded that possibly the nozzle tip turned slightly during disassembly.

I torqued the top nut to the book torque value and did not detect anything that felt wrong. I did everything I could to get into the precup and clean the nozzle seat and the nozzle tip to ensure good seal. I guess my gut has me a little uneasy with that part at the moment.

Well, I have good and bad news, along with more questions. I got machine fired today after a little hassling as could be expected after sitting and such. After running for a short time, I heard the engine tone change, like it was working against a load. It caused several shutdowns and more thinking. I could not hear the turbo spool like crazy so I figured turbo had issues, a lack of air, etc. Air cleaner removed, turbine wheel was checked before and after starting. Free as a bird.

It was determined that not once did the U joint shaft between TC and trans ever spin. Something is stuck. But because the engine seemed to be laboring, I think the TC was trying. I tried to bar over the U joint a little....nothing. Then, because we certainly just rolled the machine into place where it is now, I decided I wanted to try to move machine with the tractor. I did not get crazy but that tractor was not moving that machine at all, nothing. My next step is to just hook the big excavator to it and see if I can force it to move, but with all the gear reduction, I am not sure how that will work out.

Something is stuck I think. I realize taking the U joint apart would tell the story, but there is one more thing. Like to find an easy way or at least confirm or prove out some things at this point.

Engine really sounded great. Little white smoke during start up, but cleaned right up and restarts were clean. No blowby was detected at dipstick or vent. I'm sure it will have some, but it seemed well within limits on a good engine. The trans pressure is another story. On initial start, it popped right up to normal range of 330# as shown on the gauge. After a bit, I attempted to put it in gear. It actually did take a gear this time, but I observed the pressure drop out to near nothing. This is on the dash pressure gauge, which I confirmed to read pressure just after the pressure side filters, going into the valve block in the trans. Not once did I feel/hear the machine act like it was in a gear. Every single attempt at anything causes severe pressure drop. I worked to get a pressure gauge on the trans pump directly but realize that thread must be extra special as it ain't pipe thread.

When I pulled the dipstick on the trans, I did notice a lot of bubbles on the stick. It is most certainly moving oil, but I did have thoughts about pulling air. At this point, I am torn in what I want to do. Something is stuck. If I could get it into gear, that is probably the easiest way to break it free, but I fear that means certain doom for whatever is stuck. Being in a bind, even in neutral takes the finals, bevel, etc, all out of the equation.

Thoughts or advice so far?

Hi bobby1,
good news for the injector nozzle is that it is designed with the loose thread so that the fuel injected can enter the capsule nozzle from the centre and cross drillings in the adapter.
They are meant to be screwed up to the adapter flange with the splines on finger tight only.

Well worn transmission linkages or part seized ones can hold the transmission in between two speeds or Fwd and Rev. and cause the Safety valve to set when pressure drops below around 100 psi.
Suggest you disconnect the linkages at the little vertical levers on the transmission itself and check the linkages.
There are detents at the control valve operate shafts on these levers inside the Trans that positively hold the spools in the correct position only if the linkages are adjusted from the Operators console as per the manual or not seized.

As you describe it sounds like the trans is engaging as evidenced by the laboring of the engine and the drive shaft between the T/C and Trans not spinning--it should spin fairly easily by hand or small lever when ever the engine is not running.

Another trick that can stop a machine from moving is that the Parking Brake Lock operates on both steer brakes and it is easy to release one and not notice the other is not released due to an equalizer bar in the linkage, the ratchet for one can hold if you do not push hard enough on the brake pedal to get the system to release both ratchets.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

I have all the floor plates out so I can be certain the parking brakes are not an issue. When I first got this machine and tried to test it, the shifter was locked out and would not allow any gear selections. Today I was able to move through all selections but not even one of them did anything! I had another 7E so I know what I am feeling for. That jolt in the saddle like its in a gear.

I am very much hoping you are right about being stuck between gears. It was about the time I started messing with the shifter that I heard the engine tone change like it was laboring. I resorted toe smacking the U joint a bit to see if it would move even a little. Nope. I gave up on that. Figure if that big engine will not free it, I doubt my hammer will.

On the pressures, on initial startup, I got my target 330psi pretty quickly. I was feeling happy. Decided to try a gear, pressure on the dash gauge dropped to practically 0. Every single gear, all 6, and the steer clutches all did the same thing. They dropped the pressure out quickly, but a 'little' pressure would try to come back. Nothing even approaching 300 though.

It is puzzling to me that I am able to select gears with poor trans pressure. I thought it would kick me out of gear if trans pressure dropped out? In any case, I don't see how I can test linkage and such unless running? Or do you mean see if there is ridiculous play somewhere? I did notice the lever acted like it might like to go a little further forward to get a neutral find.

I think more than anything right now, I might need to look closer at where my trans pressure is going! I need to get a gauge on the top of the trans pump but that plug is odd! It's not 1/4" or 1/8" pipe! my gauge is 1/4". I do know the trans pressure gauge in the dash is reading after the pressure side filters. I can only hope they are like 100% plugged. But if pressure at the pump also drops out, that means either poor pump pickup, or a major pressure side leak.

Maybe we need to clarify some things.
When the engine started did the prop shaft spin whilst in neutral?
Did prop shaft not spin whilst gear engaged?
Did prop shaft spin again when gear not engaged?
Did transmission temp start to rise quickly when prop shaft not spinning?

I am thinking has transmission got a split ring gear or such, jamming it.

Wombat

I should have mentioned that there are only five cutches/gears, 3 speed and two direction.

Wombat

To clarify, I did not confirm if prop shaft spun when first started or not, but I don't think so. I reasoned that due to draining the trans cooler, filter screens, etc, it might have taken a bit for TC to activate. When first started I could hear the normal turbo whine. Now when I give it some juice, I get black smoke and an engine that sounds like it is working on something good.....lol Couple that with a prop shaft that won't spin, I have concerns something is seized up hard. However, it rolled like hot butter when we drug the machine to where it is now.

It was my understanding that as soon as you kill the engine, the machine will roll like it's in neutral in any gear?

I did confirm I am able to force the shift lever when not running and I can feel every single detent. the FW to RV is very bright. No doubt there is no binding or issues in that sector but I do wonder about trying to get in a gear with very low trans pressure. Wondering if it is stuck. I fear the only way I can confirm if TC or trans is hung is remove the prop shaft and that does not look like any fun with no help and not being able to rotate it.

I did confirm the trans pump port is 1/4" flare so I know have a gauge stuffed in there and waiting till morning for that test.

As far as oil temp, I had the exact same thoughts! i really feel like the TC is working it's heart out to spin that shaft even though I didn't really let the engine have a full dinner because it needs a little warm up. I did not detect any crazy warm oil areas and the TC temp gauge never did come up at all. But again, I feel rather confident the engine is OK, and it is laboring against a load. At idle, it would be similar to having the machine in a gear, holding the brakes, no biggy. But when I dump some fuel on, I can tell the RPMs don't want to come up, I get black (not white) smoke, and a turbo that is not getting after it.

I actually thought there was an engine issue. Specifically the turbo. I just cannot find any issue there. I know the engine ran perfect last time I tested as I revved it and it took throttle like normal.