The wet clutch does have a circulation pump and filter that cools and flushes - just oil in compartment would not have that feature?

neil wrote:

neil post=232131 userid=911

Hi Scott, If your dry clutch works fine with oil in it, then I'm going to look hard at doing that too. Have you pulled hard with it?

Neil, for your limited use, I think it would just be a another source for oil to leak from, with very little benefit.
Like  Landys and GM diesels, when the drips dry up, you know its time to top up oil 😉

Hey Neil, I haven't done any farm type pulling but I've pulled a lot of logs. I can't remember any problems with the main clutch but the clutch brake doesn't seem to like the oil. It looks pretty fat but doesn't stop the clutch from spinning to shift.
And I agree with Glum, the oil is everywhere. I won't miss the oil.
I'll be pulling the clutch out soon and will give an update on what I find in there

I finally got time to pull the cover and clutch out of the 7u. It is in fact a dry clutch set up so it looks like a simple swap to my parts tractor clutch.
The yoke seems to be the only thing that is bad with the exception of the disc which is beyond wore out.
The bottom bolt in the yoke looks like brand new and it had the lock on it but it wasn't bent over. The bottom bolt was laying in the sludge in the case.

Everything all cleaned and ready to reinstall.
The parts clutch disc was in good shape but the pressure plates were a little crusty. I disassembled both assemblies and put the parts disc in the original pressure plates. It has an actual bearing instead of the bronze collar for the throw out and since it had all that oil it's in good shape too.
I also cleaned out the passage for the pilot bearing grease. The pilot bearing was also in good shape so it got cleaned and reinstalled.
Clutch in hopefully today.

I put 10 gallons of oil in my D7-3T clutch compartment not realizing that it's an earlier dry clutch model. I was going by the book without focusing in on the serial number change and assumed that the big nut was for oil when it is actually just to access the pony pinion adjustment. My Cat mechanic friend who pointed it out said it didn't do any harm in the few hundred feet I drove it but still recommended draining it. Whether it would cause problems if left in, I don''t know, but I am going to drain it.

Hi d2gary,
Just looking at your latest photos, and what you have is a tractor that originally came out as an oil clutch, then somewhere along the time line it went back one step to a greased collar, and now you are going back one more step to an oil lubricant collar.

The problem you are going to have is trying to do up the bottom bolt on the big round collar and bend over the lock tab as there is no hole in the side of the case.

Like my 7U it was an oil clutch and somewhere they had changed it to a dry and I managed to find an oil clutch an put it back in. It is much better than a dry clutch.

Regards

    I can't say if the oil helped or hurt but without the pump and other equipment that goes with it was sure a mess.

Hi rax200
Tractor was set up with the dry clutch when I got it and as you say was definitely an oil clutch originally. I kept the greased collar and that seems like a big upgrade over the bronze oil collar.
Yes the bottom bolt in the yolk and the lock tab were challenging but I managed to get it done.
For the limited amount of time I'll us this tractor this should last me.
Should be ready for a test run tomorrow

I meant 10 quarts in the clutch chamber, not gallons. It was the transmission that took 10 gallons.