Deas Plant - It does have a pony. I changed the oil in it and cleaned the carb. Waiting for another day off so I can see if it has spark and wants to fire.

Thanks seiscat. I just ordered all three of those manuals, they will be a huge help in answering a lot of questions for me. I know it was mentioned they were online but I prefer to have a hard copy in my hands thst I can look at.

Hi, Larry B.
GOGETTEM. Those 3Ts were a great dozer in their day.

I would also suggest checking the steering booster under the fuel tank at the rear. This unit contains the oil that powers the hydraulic steering boosters for the steering clutches. The oil itself should be clean and I think the level is up close to where the plug screws in. (It'z been a while since I checked one of them - maybe 40 years.)

The plug is an in-hex style with the hex being equivalent to either a 5/8" or a 3/4" UNC/UNF bolt head.

Be sure to clean away around the plug before removing it. You DON'T want dirt in there.

Just my 0.02.

Hi Team,
the main engine oil pan should have side cover plates on each side that would allow you access to flush out the pan.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

i forgot about the pilot engine but same thing change the oil run it till warm and change it again. you can also use engine oil flush additives but i personally dont like em they can make older and worn engines leak oil when they didnt before. and yes drain the fuel tanks to remove sediment etc diesel can be reused just let it settle and run it through a water trap filter to remove any moisture. but old petrol is only good for killing weeds. i suggest you clean the pilot engine fuel tank with a short lentgh of light chain dog chain works well and some kerosene or hot soapy water and detergent bung the outlet add the chain add some cleaner put the cap on and shake well make sure all sides get a good scrub. rinse well with water followed with metho let dry. and clean the fuel line and carby bowl. dont forget to clean the glass bowl fuel filter many have had problems due to the filter being dirty.

and yes you probably can use the same oil as whats in your diesel pick up provided its a mineral oil and not synthetic. the recommendation from the oil company i use is to use a 15w-40 multi grade diesel oil. they used sae 30 back then cause that is what they had multigrades didnt exist for diesel engines and you changed your oil for the cold weather and change it again for hot weather.

dont forget to clean the oil bath air filters.

just cause a engine is sludged doesnt mean it needs rebuild but its a fair assumption that it might. it just depends how abused it has been maybe it was just overdue for a change and the sedimet has settled out as it sat. maybe some one has run heavier oil in it for some reason.

you give it a oil and filter change and find out. IF it dont burn oil, blow heaps of smoke or make bad noises then its fine

 Hi Larry, You're welcome! Those inverted-hex plugs also have a taper to the hex. The welded bolt & nut work fine but the proper tool is still available from Caterpillar + it fits both the plugs Cat used. The part number is visible in the photo.

 

For the steering booster should I use the 15w40 also? I'll have to make or order that tool that was mentioned and posted.
I haven't looked close enough to see the side plates in the oil pan, but that's a good heads up for cleaning out the oil.
The next step is to remove the fuel tank for the pony and clean it thoroughly before adding clean fuel back. Probably gonna try to dispose of the diesel since it sounds like it could be 15 years old. Think there's 40 gallons in the tank so not sure where to haul it but I'll figure that out I suppose.
The oil on the dipstick of the main engine looks very thick and tacky. That's why I thought there might be sludge in the pan. Maybe I'll get lucky and it won't be horrible.

The other thing I noticed is that I'm pretty sure there is something wrong with the pinion on the pony motor. Originally when I looked at the dozer I couldn't spin the hand crank for the pony. It would just barely turn and when it did the main fan tried to move just slightly . I thought maybe the pinion was stuck engaged and I was trying to turn both motors. After hauling it home, I can turn over the pony but the pinion lever seems to do nothing. I can move it but there is zero resistance on it. I put it in the engaged position which I figured would make it to where I couldn't turn the pony over but I still can. Does that make sense or is something potentially broken?
Thanks again guys for the responses and advice. It makes it seem possible to get this thing going again

a trick i learned for cleaning up old engines is to use a sacrificial oil change of half 30 w engine oil and half ATF. run the engine until warm no load just idle then shut it off and allow to completely cool down then warm it up again and change the oil and filters immediately. shouldn't overclean or hut any seals.

From the mid-1960s and before the Caterpillar manuals like the ones you ordered cover only the bare tractor. You will also need the books for the blade and the books for the blade cable control(if equipped) or the hydraulic control. I have some of these books or I can help you find them let me know what you need.
btw I think you would enjoy the ACMOC magazine and you've already seen how helpful the members are so please join the club and help support us.
Thanks,
Craig
 

You only need to bump one latch to release the pinion as the two latches are geared together.