Deas wrote:

Hi, uisum.
The suction line to the hydraulic pump will be a bigger, low pressure line, not heavy construction like the high pressure hoses. It has been a LONG time since I had anything to do with these old girls but I think it starts either under the hydraulic tank or on the inboard side near the bottom and will lead to the hydraulic pump, hence the suggestion to remove the floor plates.

'Kwestyun': How long has it been making these noises and been low on hydraulic power?

'Nuther 'kwestyun': Has it been getting steadily worse or did it suddenly start doing these things?

Just my 0.02.

Hi .. The crawler loader had stood still for maybe 10 years. I bought it like this.
Could it be the oil that looks like milk? who creates all this noise?
hydraulics work but the noise is bad, and the power is not what it should

Hi, uisum.
I'm guessing from your last post that it has water in the oil and that the pump was bad when it last worked. If you know somebody with the proper gauges, you could have it tested for pressure but that is my guess at the moment.

I would NOT try to run it like that as you risk dumping metal into the system and that would be very hard to clean out.

Just my 0.02.

You better NOT run it anymore! Pull that pump! if it scatters you'll be disassembling the whole hydraulic system, cylinders, tank, lines to completely clean the system! Replace all hoses between the tank and pump, old hoses get hard and can suck air.

Hi guys.I disassembled the pump, I attach pictures.the bolt was completely broken on the ground. will this be the noise?
there is no trace of a washerone of the 4 bolts was also broken

That probably is the source of the noise as that socket head cap screw rolled around between the drive gear and the pump. Being the pump is front timing gear driven any junk metal would wind up in the main engine sump and not circulated in the hydraulic system. Looks like you will need a new pump unless you can find a machine shop that can repair the damaged bolt hole. The drive splines look good.

Hello
the shaft hole is strangely good. I can't figure out where the washer went.
do you have the tightening torques of these billons?
the rotor, the oval one and quite scratched by the vanes.
Do you think that the noise under load is given by the vibrations of the gear ring Free? Without bolt ... it's strange because it only does it under load ..

The washer and lock if it had one would wind up in the main engine oil pan along with any metal grindings.

Hi, uisum,
Quote:
"The hydraulics work, but if you strain for example: bucket on the ground to lift the loader you will hear a loud screech in the pump."
Unquote.

I think I'll stick with my original thought that the pump is worn and is bypassing under load thus causing the noise. The scratching would bear this out.

Just my 0.02.

the howl from the pump is cavitation. that can be from wear or entrapped air. check the tank vents and filler cap are working properly to allow air to escape and that they are sealing properly against water ingress.
to check if its air take a sample in a clear glass jar or jug by standing it in hot water and warm it up to a warm bath temp and let it cool if its air it will settle and clear out if not its water if any separation layer appears at the bottom it water.
after checking for leaks i would simply replace the oil. if it was water contamination its best to flush the system as that water will cuase problems later.

if the pump can be repaired with replacement parts do so but also check what a whole pump is worth. this is why loctite is your friend overtime lock washers and lock nuts work loose and that is why they are single use parts. i have never had a problem undoing something done with loctite provided the correct grade was used. all you need is a little heat a big soldering iron is perfect for a heat source to soften loctite except for the very high temp stuff the tech sheets actually list what temp you need to soften it.

trainzkid88 wrote:

the howl from the pump is cavitation. that can be from wear or entrapped air. check the tank vents and filler cap are working properly to allow air to escape and that they are sealing properly against water ingress.
to check if its air take a sample in a clear glass jar or jug by standing it in hot water and warm it up to a warm bath temp and let it cool if its air it will settle and clear out if not its water if any separation layer appears at the bottom it water.
after checking for leaks i would simply replace the oil. if it was water contamination its best to flush the system as that water will cuase problems later.

if the pump can be repaired with replacement parts do so but also check what a whole pump is worth. this is why loctite is your friend overtime lock washers and lock nuts work loose and that is why they are single use parts. i have never had a problem undoing something done with loctite provided the correct grade was used. all you need is a little heat a big soldering iron is perfect for a heat source to soften loctite except for the very high temp stuff the tech sheets actually list what temp you need to soften it.

Hi, thank you very much for the suggestions.
What worries me is the stator which looks quite worn. Perhaps the noise is caused by the oil and also by the wear of the pump.
it's not what it looks like in the picture. In fact, the differences in height are almost imperceptible to the touch. Maybe I can file and align the piece?
I attach photos