good afternoon,
I finally got around to removing the clutch assembly out of my 2H RD6... had to wait untill the tundra warmed up to more than -30°F lol. not sure if I'm beating a dead horse, but I've found minimal resources on this process aside from a couple helpful members here, and outside of "computer land". So I figured I'd post an update, for anyone who may need a reference in the future.
I've considered making more videos on YouTube, but that depends on expressed interest by other people, since it's a lot of work! So let me know.  

First step was to get all 20 brake drum bolts removed. This is done by moving the machine back and forth. Due to the gears in the final drives, you only need to move the machine about 3 feet. I believe the manual calls for the usage of the pony motor and 1st gear. Which is probably the most controllable method. But I had help, so I used my 112e (grader) and jogged it that way. My bolts (3/4" head about 1 1/4" long)  were easily broken loose with a regular ratchet + 4" extension. Accessed through a pipe plug on the side of the housing just forward of the final drives.  I would imagine you need to be very careful not to break them, or you'll have a very very bad day. Once I had the bolts out I jogged the machine again to break any light rust bonds between the surfaces. Then I collapsed the drums (inwards to gain necessary clearance to remove the  whole assembly with a short prybar. 

Once that was done, I marked the positions of the adjustment nuts with a center punch. For reference later. And backed them off. (There is an adjustment procedure for this, but this will help to get it back in the ball park, worst case.) This is very important to prevent from chipping the teeth on the bull or pinion gears upon removal. Then remove the bearing caps and bolts.  I strapped the steering clutch yokes and used an engine hoist to pick the whole assembly out. i recommend this method Because It's very controllable. Like I said before, it's important to avoid damaging the gears. 


That's as far as I got as of now. Once in the shop I stripped most of the recycled dinosaurs off the parts  to get a good look at what I had going. The gears looked good, as did the main bearings and clutches. now I'm about to start making the tools to start disassembly of it. Discovered I Need a bigger puller for the taper, and a special tool for the clutch springs.. I'll be sure to keep this thread updated, and if enough Intrest is shown, I'll consider making some videos... hopefully a little easier to digest than 500 lines of Midwest highschool English..

You are doing just fine, thanks for sharing your story, I have done the exact same thing with a RD6 here, well it's actually a RD6 motor mounted on a Gas 40 tranny, but it's the same as the RD6, though have yet to put it back together, got busy on other projects while I tried to find good bellow seals for the final drives.

Don't be afraid to take photo's and share them.
Good luck
Mike

It is good practice to check and record backlash on crown wheel and pinion before dismantling.

Later repair manuals (6 cylinder D6's )suggest using a jack under a grouser to move the tractor back and forth. If you are working alone much easier to look and see if you move enough.

Your'e doing great by digging in with both hands. My first D4 project seemed like a lost cause, but I was determined. Quite pleased with myself, so If I could do it, you can as well.
Best friend I had was a manual. Even though it was a reprint, it gave me direction on what to do. I had ZERO experience working on CATs when I did mine.
Don't be bashful about asking questions or better yet, post some pictures please. There could be some tricks and pointers that the seasoned "pros" (not me btw) could share with you to make your task easier.

juiceman wrote:

Your'e doing great by digging in with both hands. My first D4 project seemed like a lost cause, but I was determined. Quite pleased with myself, so If I could do it, you can as well.
Best friend I had was a manual. Even though it was a reprint, it gave me direction on what to do. I had ZERO experience working on CATs when I did mine.
Don't be bashful about asking questions or better yet, post some pictures please. There could be some tricks and pointers that the seasoned "pros" (not me btw) could share with you to make your task easier.


 

luckily I have a repop parts book. But It appears the service manuals are over by the arc of the covenant... been watching eBay and Facebook sales groups closely for sure. 


 

I have had good and sub par versions of reprints. If you can be lucky enough, get an original, I don't think it gets any better than that. No fun trying to read or envision something illegible. Some folks I know will keep a pristine version for reading at home, while the shop copy gets the fingerprinting and greasy smudges.
Keep us all posted on your project. It sounds like a fun one. JM

Hi Team,
there were no D6 Service Manuals until the R series, however the D8 1H, 8R, 2u and 13A Serv. Man. Form No 31271 or the later -01, -02, etc. editions will suffice for explanations of remove and refit procedures and has the same secondary steer clutch lever serrated lever pivot block adjustments on the floor of the steer clutch compartments. My RD6 steering was rejuvenated after discovering about these secondary pivot adjustments and she went on to do a lot of work afterwards without further adjustment.

At the Dealer we most often used a 10 ton jack to move the machine forwards or backwards to position the steer brake drum bolts to the opening as it was more controlled and close to said opening especially when working alone--my guess for the pony engine use was to only crank the pony over to move the machine without the pony running--I could see this being dangerous in confined areas if the pony started up unexpectedly. In the Dealer and often clients shops machines were often lined up one behind the other in the work bays. and so were close to each other.
Cheers,
Eddie B.