After putting the tailseat D-2 to a nice little workout, it was time to bring her back for some TLC.
I had a wonky bottom roller that required attention.
The old Hart-Carter Spraymaster we have has a repurposed UC which came from an abandoned JD 95RC " Squareback" rice harvester. Very common for these to have D2 running gear (prove me wrong).
I "borrowed" a couple for my ailing D-2. It's nice to have spare parts, as Murphy's Law would have it that I rid myself of 3 D-2 parts tractors I owned just months earlier! It's a good thing I took two off. I ended up having to utilize 3 to make one good one! 😆 
I want to save what I can of the "rejects". Do the shafts just press out? I see roll pins for the hardened washers?
how do you extract the brass/bronze bushings? Dremel tool or? What material do you recommend for new shafts? Are new bushings and seals still available?
I think I found a way to occupy my time now, by rebuilding some rollers!!! Pics for comments. TIA JM.

 

Thats the trouble with having roller guards, you cant see if the rollers are getting bad.

Yes, Rome K/G. I almost removed them permanently, but opted not to, as they were already part of the tractor. One less thing to lose or trip over in my parts stash!
The roller that was bad, actually began eating into the track frame. It had eaten thru the upper web some. I didn't bother to weld it up, even though my wire welder was so close.
Lots of guards were removed because mud and stuff would get packed in there too. Me, I prefer having all the sheet metal in place.

Those rollers look like some of mine did. The sharts do press out although I was able to salvage enough good ones i didn't have to mess with mine, it will probably take a big press. The gaskets for behind the wear washers are available from Cat along with the pins to hold the washers. The bellows seals from a d7 top roller are a direct replacement from Florin. Part #7b9968 at about $40. If you go to my d2 post on page 7 there is some pictures and information on the rollers. My friend Bryon turned new bushings from some stock bushings on his lathe. We just cut 2 straight groves for thr grease to pass through.

d2gary wrote:

Those rollers look like some of mine did. The sharts do press out although I was able to salvage enough good ones i didn't have to mess with mine, it will probably take a big press. The gaskets for behind the wear washers are available from Cat along with the pins to hold the washers. The bellows seals from a d7 top roller are a direct replacement from Florin. Part #7b9968 at about $40. If you go to my d2 post on page 7 there is some pictures and information on the rollers. My friend Bryon turned new bushings from some stock bushings on his lathe. We just cut 2 straight groves for thr grease to pass through.

Thanks for the input Gary. I had better salvage what I can. I would hate to spend big $ for tractors that rarely get started or driven. Florin is my first go to for new/used parts here, as Dana is only an hour away and quick with overnight delivery many times. I have quite a few new bellows seals in boxes here, but I believe they are for either D4 or D6. Do you think if I heated the roller I could pop the shaft out with a 30 ton press? For the love of tractors! 
I want to thank RT for offering some rollers by the way...a real gentleman!
Thanks everyone. JM

I really couldn't say on pressing the shaft out, with some heat it might. When I first started on the rollers we were thinking about turning the shaft to clean up the surface and installing custom bushings. I'm pretty sure the d4and d6 roller seals are different . I was also able to get shims from Florin to take up the wear on the washer surfaces. Theres a spec in the servicemen book for side to side play