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How to Unstick a Stuck D2 Angle Blade
How to Unstick a Stuck D2 Angle Blade
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Posts: 108
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Thank you received: 6
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3 years 8 months ago #225342
by rhartwick
This is probably going to sound dumb, but the right side "beam" on the D2 has been stuck fast in the long bolt connecting it through the blade since I had the machine. I want to be able to angle the blade. The left side is free - I pull the pin and the beam swings out, but the right side is rusted fast and wont pivot at the blade so I can rotate the blade back into a different pin hole.
I have had the machine over 2 years, and I have been putting PB Blaster, Kroil, acetone/ATF on it whenever I walked by the machine, figuring eventually it would loosen things up. Plus, when I use the machine, one would think there would be enough stress on the pivot area to free it up - but no such luck. I only have a regular torch, and I couldn't imagine being able to heat such a large massive area enough to do much good. I was thinking of putting some serious pull on the beam with a come-along, but worry it might bend, then I would be up a creek.
Any tricks on how I might free up the joint? I'll give it another couple of years of penetrating oil, but being an impatient guy, I was hoping to speed things up a bit if I could.
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3 years 8 months ago #225343
by nomorejohndeere
pull the pins and get mean up against something with it?
If you can't heat it or know where to start cutting until it releases and then weld back....
Is the front pivot jammed? Or the sliding rails warped?
Weld on some eyes and install a hydraulic ram on it and use your hydraulics to push......
D47U
AC HD3
nomore JD1010
nomore IH T340
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3 years 8 months ago #225344
by rhartwick
The front pivot is free and so is the left arm. If I pull the pin and try to pull the right side arm out, it is tightly stuck. If I pull on the arm it has loads of leverage on the pin. Pulling it hard by hand almost bends the arm a bit. I can jack or pull on the arm, but I don't want it to bend. The connecting pin holding it to the blade is probably 18" long, so the rust has lots of surface area. I am considering using a sledge hammer on the top of the pin with the castellated nut, but I hate to mushroom it. It seems like it should be a trivial problem, but it is keeping me from using the angle feature on the blade. I may just have to get more aggressive on how to beat on it until it frees up.
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3 years 8 months ago #225345
by d2gary
Pictures might help determine a course of action, but you might be surprised how a little bit of heat will help. Most of the time with rusted components its not a one and done fix it takes time and small movements to break it free. Once you start beating on things you're almost guaranteed to have to replace them, which is ok if that part is available, but 5j parts are sometimes hard to find.
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3 years 8 months ago #225347
by Rome K/G
Have a propane tank about the size for a grill? Get a weed burner and heat the pin areas up good then try working it back and forth.
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3 years 8 months ago #225355
by nomorejohndeere
I was imagining a different area......the ones with slides down each side....not your style of blade....
Your saying the triangle at the blade won't swing out?
And the pin goes through more than one slot?
heat and beat
or cut out the exposed part of the pins and directly beat out the corroded in pin left in the blade mount
D47U
AC HD3
nomore JD1010
nomore IH T340
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3 years 8 months ago #225383
by neil
If you have access to a mag drill, you could drill the pin out
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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3 years 8 months ago #225388
by restore49
Raise the blade and or dig hole enough to get a LP turkey roaster burner just under the pin area - run on high sit back relax have a burger. Pull out burner and immediately pour buckets of cold water on pin. Do again making sure you use a hose or buckets of water.
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3 years 7 months ago #225594
by trainzkid88
your reffering to the nearly 2ft long bolt that holds the blade to the blade arms correct?
if so just torch the ends off and remove the blade arm from machine now you can get it to a press. as others have said heat and shock cool it but dont use water use dry ice block straight on top of the pin only or liquid nitrogen you only want to shrink the pin not the surrounding steel the idea is to shock the rust bond free. you could also immerse the thing arm standing vertical it in a cut off drum filled with diesel just enough to cover it each day top up the diesel and give the pin a love tap with a club hammer (use a bit of hardwood inbetween hammer and pin so you get a good hit) till it moves then cut off the burred ends and press it out. you can also just shrink cool the pin without heating it
we have freed stuck pistons using this trick everday top up the diesel and give it a tap after a week it worked that motor still runs years later.
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How to Unstick a Stuck D2 Angle Blade
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