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One would think it would only be possible to flounder so much with a pony motor
One would think it would only be possible to flounder so much with a pony motor
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Posts: 369
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Thank you received: 16
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3 years 7 months ago #225708
by Mangoman
With 0 mark in roughly vertical position on flywheel- just past MAG in normal roation of engine. I am quite certain the pony crank and cam are in correct mesh.
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3 years 7 months ago #225711
by neil
You can always use a test light Nathan, turning the mag slowly so you don't zap it (not sure how much of a surge would go through the primary circuit on a mag). Test it installed so you can be sure you have the correct cylinder
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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3 years 7 months ago #225723
by edb
Hi,
if you had the pony No1 cylinder on TDC compression stroke--tested by discharge of air from the cylinder drain tap for the rear or left cylinder-- then the marks should both be in the window--likely is timed one turn of the crank out that will require swapping the spark plug leads at the magneto cap out towers if the engine pops only but will not run.
I stand to be corrected.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Mangoman
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3 years 7 months ago #225729
by Mangoman
Well, whatever I did this last go around, it runs strong again! It took awhile but we got there. We of course because of all the input thank you everyone. I adjusted the breaker plate as best as I could with Eddie B's method, cleaned mating surfaces thank you Neil, re set plug gap and she runs like a charm. Starts two pulls in -2c weather, idles smooth and pulls the diesel even with cold oil, under compression right up to governed speed without a whimper and only part throttle!
I walked it over to the neighbor's and plowed out the 40cm of snow that has settled in his driveway over the winter and she did well until I blew a hyd hose. Hopefully I will get back there in a day or two and finish the job 😁
Much thanks to everyone for the help.
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d2gary
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3 years 7 months ago #225772
by edb
Hi trainzkid88,
what you say is true but, most Eisemann's run 0.020" points gap and is one of the problems seen here for at least the years I have been posting on the BB.
People assume and adjust to the usual 0.015" you mention and so end with advanced timing causing kick backs on the pull rope as well as upsetting the Edge Gap setting from the factory and so have weak spark as well--then they retard the magneto gears one tooth to stop the kick back and open a whole new raft of issues.
The only true way to be sure of the needed points gap is to read it from the grey Operation and Maintenance Instructions booklet for your Serial Number machine--some of these books give both the details for an Am. Bosch magneto--listed first and the older Eisemann second in their layout and it is easy to jump in and read the points gap for the AB and apply it to the Eisemann little realising a page or so on is the data for their Eisemann and so endure the above dramas.
Been there done that when in a hurry.
Regards,
Eddie B.
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3 years 7 months ago #225794
by trainzkid88
my machine had the bosch unit. there is definately a art in setting a maggy correctly i have had fun with lucas and wico mags on stationary engines. you wouldnt think 5 thou would make much difference but it does.
i did notice in the books for my machine that there are different setups even for the same brand of magneto depending on machine serial.
lesson to learn assume nothing it only makes an ass of u and me.
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One would think it would only be possible to flounder so much with a pony motor
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