Skoop, your engine is beautiful! I am in the midst of overhauling my own pony engine too. A question for you or others. Are the governor bearings originally sealed? If not, how are the bearings and the flyweights lubed? I haven't taken mine apart yet other that take the cover off the back side and seeing the nut requiring a four pronged spanner. Really wondering if I should take it down further and how to treat it when I do. Thanks for the input!

Elton

Very nice! Too pretty to bolt back on to your tractor. Would make a wonderful display engine. Congrats on a good job. JM

Well.......THATS embarrassing!!! But one thing I learned early in life is that it is MUCH cheaper to ask advice BEFORE grenading something! Thank you gents for the catch! Shouldnt be the end of the world to fix. As for the tension on the throttle and choke, I wanted to have a bit to mull it over. I think I will simply place a slotted plate on the backside of the bracket to gently push up on the rods. The governor rebuild was troublesome. The bearing have more of what Id call a debris/dust cover on them vs a true seal. I made my own spanner wrench out of a piece of pipe. Looked like someone used a punch or chisel on it previously. The rear bearing slipped right off, but the front of the original and the donor both got grenaded by the press and were difficult to remove from the shaft. Thankfully, they are all the same bearing and I was still left with 2 good ones. In hindsight, both fronts didnt need to come off. And they are insanely expensive to replace! My OCD wouldnt let me leave it be..... A tablespoon or so of oil is what lubricates the shaft and flyweights inside. One last thing left to do is have the neighbor machine a new cap nut for the starter. It was heavily staked and I thought I could press it off. Guess what? .....it was threaded.....good thing I grabbed my safety glasses. A half stroke on the press after I put them on it exploded!

Homemade spanner wrench and cap nut for starter.

very nice work you should be very proud of your hard work it looks like it paid off. I too question the S.S. fasteners as was said S.S. is a weaker metal, but they sure do look good all shiny like chrome on the pony. keep up the good work.

Hi All,
To lube the weights in the governor you remove a screw and put a few drops or squirts in and put the screw back, this is mentioned in the service book, as for the bearings the aftermarket number is 88504 and they are sealed.

Regards

SUCCESS!!! Now that I have corrected my backwards lifter faux pas, I got 'er back together for the big show. Played hell figuring out that my particular magneto points like .016" of clearance. Not .015 or .017. Need to peruse the forum search for carb tuning and play with the carb settings a bit more. Seems to be running a little on the hot side. The governor seems to hold it steady with no adjustment neccesary yet. Thanks to all you fine gentlemen for every tid bit of advice I've been able to glean from this forum!

Seems the head studs came up a little short on thread. Does look good. I don't think there's anything going on in that pony that would overstress the ss fasteners.

rax200 wrote:

Hi All,
To lube the weights in the governor you remove a screw and put a few drops or squirts in and put the screw back, this is mentioned in the service book, as for the bearings the aftermarket number is 88504 and they are sealed.

Regards

to change sealed bearing to non sealed or only sealed one side just pop out the appropriate seal/s the difference between a 60024-2RS and 60024-1RS (RS simply means rubber seal. by the way just 60024 means a non sealed bearing) is somebody took a pick tool to it and popped out a seal and put it in a new packet and of course charge you extra.
the uncle worked for Mt Isa Mines in the 80's they bought bearings by the pallet and one of the head store-men twigged that they were being charged extra for the same bearing size and they used all three types so why order all three when its easy for the fitters to pop out the seals themselves bonus the bearing were always clean and uncontaminated as they were still factory sealed. it also freed up self space in the stores shed. all bearings that are available with seals come with both from factory you pay for them to be changed and repackaged by the distributor.