Clint,

On my D2 I went to a local nut and bolt supply house and they ordered they for me, I took one of the old ones in as a sample. They were made to order and ran about $25 each. I took a cut off the old nut from the adjuster nut and welded on a new nut and then split it in three places to allow for the pinch clamp to lock it down.

Kevin

My experience with tracks that come off is to jack the machine up until all of the slack is on the bottom. Loosen the track off and slowely try reversing the track with the engine and it should come back on. Then retighten the track and let it down and you should be back in business.

I will be loosening my idler to put the track back on my D4 or just walking it back on the sprocket. Anyway is there a dimension for the compression of the tension spring to know when it is adjusted correctly? I have one track looser than the other and they have fallen off 3 times this year and only once in the past 8 years, so I think it's time to adjust.

Skip in CT

"SSsssteamer" wrote:

One also has to first loosen the idler arm nuts so that the idler adjusting nut can be turned. The idler adjusting nut has it's hex split into three segments from the get go. The adjusting nut shouldn't need a muffler clamp to hold it together because the nut's collar is not split all the way through and the nuts's collar is still attached to the split hex nut. Get started by soaking the adjusting nut with your favoirte penetrant oil. I haven't seen an idler adjusting nut not come loose yet. Sometimes a little heat from a torch also helps. If your adjusting nut is broken, now would be a good time to fix it. Without the three nut segments attached to the collar, it would be tough to turn it if it was rusted solid.

what is a idler adj nut? it's not the same as the track adj nut correct? and could the idler be used to tighten the track?

There are times when it sounds like the track is trying to come off my D6. I think I have a guard system in place that prevents it from happening, being the system that was built on my track frames for the dozer blade. At least I think it has the extra "feature" of preventing tracks from being thrown off.

I think my adjuster is at max or is very close to max.

Edit: Oh wow, this was an old post from long ago.

This is a good thread to revive , since all of us could face this job at one time or another. A few photos (or diagrams) would help because the terminology can be different among different owners. I think I will follow the advice and hit a bunch of threads with Liquid Wrench and see how seized up things are. ACMOC is great. Grant.