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D47J Fuel transfer pump

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4 years 1 month ago #221689 by ccjersey
Replied by ccjersey on topic D47J Fuel transfer pump
Mike doesn’t the 7J pump have the tell-tale line on the front corner of the engine connected to the space between the two shaft packings? If one like that leaks, you should get a drip out the drain line. There are other possible sources of drips from those lines, so if you see one dripping you may have to disconnect something to isolate the source of the leak.

In any event, the drained cavity between two seals SHOULD ensure the pump doesn’t put fuel into the oil pan. The drain line could be plugged, crimped etc, so it’s good to check.

D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time:D

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4 years 1 month ago #221713 by Mike Meyer
Replied by Mike Meyer on topic D47J Fuel transfer pump
Yes Jim, you are right, I forgot about that, provided the drain line isn't crimped closed or blocked with a mud daubers egg, then any excess fuel should drain out that line. Thanks for clarifying that.
Regards
Mike

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4 years 1 month ago #221721 by clayton
Replied by clayton on topic D47J Fuel transfer pump
All good info to check, I did clean out the drain line and haven't seen any fuel leak from it so I think my seals are fine. I'm starting to wonder if I didn't get everything cleaned out of the orfice for the valve making it not seat properly at least that's what I'm hoping. I won't get a chance to look or do anything until Tuesday as my work is keeping me away from my toys, Thank you again everyone for all the great knowledge. Clayton

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4 years 1 month ago #221725 by Mike Meyer
Replied by Mike Meyer on topic D47J Fuel transfer pump
Try the easy fixes first Clayton, if you find your valve seat is good, then the next thing to check is the internals of the pump itself, there are four 3/8" UNF nuts that secure the pump to the engine, if you only undo the the smaller bolts on the cover with your 1/2" spanner, and undo ONLY the two larger nuts next to them using a 9/16" spanner, you should be able to remove just the outer pump cover and check the internal gears and running faces.

If everything is rusted badly in there, you will need to decide on the next step, post photo's on here, you will get plenty of opinions. Just try and avoid completely removing the pump from the engine at this stage, that's my advice, so leave those 2 bottom 9/16" nuts done up on the pump.
Good luck
Mike

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