Gents,
New to the page - have a D2 4U - When working on a slope LH clutch slips not driving to the right up a slope [ or pushing the blade hard].
Looking at the clutch adjustment LH is at end of screw travel and RH is at beginning?

Problem gets worse as the clutches heat up with use.

Clutch space is dry [ plugs have been out for years it seems]

The adjustment difference has thrown me as to which side to open up first. Any advice would be great.
Thanks
Stephen

Do you have the specified 3'' of free travel at the tip of the clutch release handle?? Begin backing off the left hand adjustment until you do, and it is likely all will be well.

Hi Team,
thanks to BruceOZ, this link should help you find the adjustment procedure.
Be aware that as the clutch wears the adjusted clearance reduces until such time as the clutch can slip when the clearance is gone plus a bit more wear--this is not good for the throw out/release bearing either as it is running under load constantly when the machine is moving.

www.tractorparts.com/PDFs/CAT_D4_6U_7U_OPS.pdf

Cheers,
Eddie B.

"bcwayne" wrote:

Do you have the specified 3'' of free travel at the tip of the clutch release handle?? Begin backing off the left hand adjustment until you do, and it is likely all will be well.

Cheers - Yes the travel is well more than 3" as a matter of fact - look closely at the photo under the word adjustment and you can see the lever stop travel lug is broken off [ LH side only]
Do you think the LH side adjustment is at end of adjustment or at the beginning ?

The link Eddie posted is for a D4, not a D2. The procedure described on page 84 of the link is opposite of that for a D2. On a D2, you back off the adjuster towards center to restore free play.

"edb" wrote:

Hi Team,
thanks to BruceOZ, this link should help you find the adjustment procedure.
Be aware that as the clutch wears the adjusted clearance reduces until such time as the clutch can slip when the clearance is gone plus a bit more wear--this is not good for the throw out/release bearing either as it is running under load constantly when the machine is moving.

www.tractorparts.com/PDFs/CAT_D4_6U_7U_OPS.pdf

Cheers,
Eddie B.

Thanks Eddie,
Downloading the link now - taking a while though. I see its for a D4 -
Steve

"bcwayne" wrote:

The link Eddie posted is for a D4, not a D2. The procedure described on page 84 of the link is opposite of that for a D2. On a D2, you back off the adjuster towards center to restore free play.

Thanks again. Yes I have the D2 Ops manual - page 76 about is the clutches. Will give it a try - but think the way the crank lever is over towards the Machine center the discs are worn out and ready to be changed. RH side looks to have no wear [ unless Ive got the idea all wrong.]

Steve

I think you have already gotten good advice but to reiterate, the left adjuster is at the extreme setting to maximize the ability to disengage/open the clutch pack the maximum amount. The position of the right side adjuster seems to indicate that clutch pack is getting toward worn out as the top clamp of the clutch release yoke is well toward the outside of the rectangular opening in the top of the steering clutch case. The clutch pack wears and if free travel in the linkage is maintained by periodic adjustment, at the end of its service life, the clutch drum and pressure plate will bottom out before the top of the yoke contacts the outboard end of the opening.

Possible reasons for this disparity in adjustment with the other side are there is more wear in the various pivots and pins in the linkage or perhaps even the left steering clutch release bearing is really getting some slack in it. The other more likely possibility is the left clutch pack is thicker which could be because it’s new, it’s swelled with rust and moisture or it was assembled with maybe too many extra disks. Some extra disks are recommended with the sintered bronze faced aftermarket disks available from General gear www.steeringclutch.com These disks are not subject to sticking and swelling like the standard friction material clutches.

In any event it appears that it was adjusted to make the clutch release and now the clutch slips under load, which would seem to indicate the clutch has worn and free travel is gone. If this is not the case, your left clutch pack has other problems, perhaps springs are rusted thin and collapsed or drum splines are worn and the teeth on the disks are hanging up in the worn notches instead of moving to the unworn areas of the splines to keep the pack compressed.

The problem, at this point, involves the left clutch, either adjustment or component failure. The steering clutch parts are available from General gear.