Hello everyone, Brand new to this informative forum...I hàve a d7 3t crawler with a waterpump leak that started after sitting about 12 month when i started it on a nice day -20c last winter. It was a fast drip at that time, start it now and its a small stream that is getting thrown off the shaft.When i bought it it came with a spare engine (mostly stripped). The serial of the engine in the machine is 6S7879(ďoesnt sound right from what i read)...my spare parts 9engine is #3T5035. I was wandering if thats the origional engine....Also can that waterpump be sealed around the shaft without removal by adding some type of string or rope or teflan inside the cap? bellow? I read something about it but dont know really what i have for an engine, and/or waterpump. Thanks in advance for any info. Rodney

You could just try to tight the nut easyl whith the engine is running until the leak is stop the loosen it slightly to relieve the paking pressure on shaft.do not overtighting the packing nut and if he still leaking you will need to change the packing or temporary use some corde.

Hi Rodney, this is the water pump page from the Operation and Maintenance Instruction book.

The special wrench shown makes the job easy but you can improvise.
I have this book and a Parts Book for sale, if you are interested send me a PM.
Craig

Thanks gemdozer.
I will take another look. I cleaned all the old branches and mud from around the water pump and tried to turn the cap lightly with a channel lock pliers near the end. Assuming thats the cap it would not turn.I will clean it up better and check with a light and a mirror to make sure im actually trying to turn on the cap without damaging it. May need to cut down a pipe wrench to get in there. Thanks. I talked to the person i bought the machine from and he mentioned a brass bolt that holds the seal in may have come loose or fell out...I couldn't find any such bolt. I guess he is thinking about the cap.

Thanks Seiscat.
A picture is worth a thousand words. I will need to cut down a pipe wrench so I can get it squarely on the cap. I have one more day to make some progress before going back to work..glad to see the cap is alot longer than i thought. i know when i tap my fingernail on it it sounds pretty tinny so i hope i can get it to turn without deforming it. I suspect it maybe tight already with no more adjustment left. Will reply with how i make out.

The gland nut has a left hand thread.

Make sure you are turning the proper direction. These 3T's are wonderfully simple. If the seal still leaks simply add some new graphite rope packing and it will be good as new.
Craig

Thanks Andrew and Siescat. I widdled down a pipe wrench with my cut off saw. Got it turning ccw to tighten...same direction as shaft rotation. Its very hard to turn.using a 4' bar for leverage on the wrench, the cap seems beefy enough to torque it...I got it turned about 10×1/16 so far and the leak is now down to about a drop every 2 seconds idling for about 30 mins. I will try and reduce that a bit more as i imagine it will leak harder hot under pressure. It shouldnt need much more. I can monitor it when im working and tighten it more later if it leaks too much..Hoping there is enough adjustment left to get it to a acceptable leakage. when its working. Thanks for the quick response everyone, Its got god knows how many hours on it being about 74 years old but i plan on working it so im guessing there will be more issues only experienced fellas would be able to help with. Much appreciated

Looks like im going to be looking for some graphite rope. I ran out of adjustment and when at full rpm's and warmed up the antifreeze spins off the shaft and gets blown back with the fan.Better than it was but still not good enough. fyi. Anyone know where you can get graphite rope? Will check around the local cat dealer here in Canada...and do a google search. Thanks

Any good plumbing supply store will have the graphite rope packing.
Craig