"edb" wrote:

Hi George,
great to hear that the engine is settling in with more run time.
The warm up time should be covered in your Grey OMI--from memory, run engine at half RPM for around 5 mins. also the book would say another 5 at full RPM until the engine and transmission, etc. is warmed up. I usually am easier on equipment than this and 3/4 speed should suffice.
As you suggest times can vary according to the ambient temperatures--wind chill, etc. and I did not pickup on a rant--you merely stated the facts about your particular machines past that after much hard work and cost you now have operating well and improving with run time also it seemingly is now exceeding your expectations.

The hallmark of a good operator is how smooth he can operate his machine with no sudden impacts and such, all done with the least number of RPM's for the task at hand.

Recently Misterskill put up a video of ripping his opal mine site, doing the job easily and gently at less than full RPM and available power--this is economic on fuel and longevity of the machinery--any cowboy can rip tear and bust with lots of noise, smoke, and speed and achieve little more than a good steady operator but certainly ruin a good quality machine that costs mega to fix with parts that are now getting harder to find.
In fact the mine sites here used to rack back their D9's etc. to try and prevent/slow down the cowboys wrecking them.

If ever you get to operate a drag-line equipped excavator you will soon come to realize that smoothness is the order of the day for best performance that shows.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

Eddie,

Thank you for the pearls of wisdom... Yes slow and steady. Since I fix her myself no wild cowboys here... Slow and steady I will always remember that.... Again thank you for all you help and great insight into this amazing machine....

"Neil" wrote:

One thing that a person could do regarding drawing in colder but moist air after shutdown is to fit aero-style dessicators. They look like a test tube filled with purple crystals and trap the moisture.

i get what you're talking about Neil...dessicate...remove/absorb water...never seen them tho...

"kittylover123" wrote:

i get what you're talking about Neil...dessicate...remove/absorb water...never seen them tho...

Okay new issue was running dozer yesterday and my old oil feed line to the turbo developed a hair line crack...(Pitted and rusted) The whole line needs to be replaced... Any idea how to replace the line as the parts book shows 8S3634 and it does not seem available...

I plan on contacting caterpillar tomorrow but I want to get your perspective....

Hydraulic hose made to fit or buy a new section of steel line and braze the ends on it.

First thing I would try is brazing the hole/crack in the old one. Properly done it should make a permanent repair.

"ccjersey" wrote:

Hydraulic hose made to fit or buy a new section of steel line and braze the ends on it.

First thing I would try is brazing the hole/crack in the old one. Properly done it should make a permanent repair.

Thanks ccjersey,


So here we go, called cat and they said obsolete part try calling around looking for a used oil line... Go figure... I would try to braze it but it needs the first 4 inches cut out where it connects to the turbo... I was wondering if I take off the line and get the steel tubing can I braze from where it connected to the turbo fitting all the way down.. I want it to be steel and not metal hose... I want it right... I posted on the other board that I am in search of it... Simple stuff can surely hold you up.... Especially now that she is running like a champ....

Wire brush it well and then use the remains of the line as a scaffolding to support a layer of bronze. I personally would not cut out a section unless it’s crushed or there’s a big hole in it. If a big hole, split a piece of new line to cover the hole and braze it on. Brazing is simple, quick and usually permanent a long as you can get the oil to drain away from the area and get access to the areas with the torch flame. If you can take the line off and lay it down flat, and rotate it as needed to work from the top side, you're home free.

I have brazed a lot of hydraulic lines that are subjected to 2000 psi with lots of pulsation and they usually last for years and years and what was going to be a temporary repair is never revisited until another place on down the line rusts out and then it is usually fixed the same way and life goes on!