on my D46U i decided to change the oil in the final drives and one of the drain plugs is stuck pretty hard. i had a 3/4 drive ratchet and a 2 foot cheater and still cant' get it to budge. so i put my milwaukee 1/2 inch drive impact on it and it is still stuck. should i warm it up with a torch a little??

"bursitis" wrote:

on my D46U i decided to change the oil in the final drives and one of the drain plugs is stuck pretty hard. i had a 3/4 drive ratchet and a 2 foot cheater and still cant' get it to budge. so i put my milwaukee 1/2 inch drive impact on it and it is still stuck. should i warm it up with a torch a little??

Yup, i'd warm it up some, or get a longer pipe, OR consider sucking it out the fill hole with something like this: www.amazon.com/dp/B000JFJM14/ref=cm_sw_e...t_dp_U_V-RWEbWN8DSQ2 I'm not sure how well that would work though depending on being able to get the hose do get down in to the bottom of the finals.

Jordan

Which side is it?

Hi Team,
usually the taper thread plugs become super stuck due to being screwing a cold plug back into a warm housing--the plug goes cold whilst the oil drains but heat is held in the housing.
Usually have to resort to a few decent square hits with a hammer to crush/stretch the threads a bit and often they come out using a hardened square adaptor--people find that they screw the square off their socket bar at the detent ball drilling

People found out early on with T Fords having tapered thread spark plugs about this issue of cold s/plugs into warm engines.
Be careful with gasketed straight thread plugs too as screwing cold plugs into an warm alloy head can stress the threads especially if they a dry of lube.

Screw the plugs in finger tight and allow them to equalize temperature for 2-3 minutes before tightening--if you use a set procedure for plug fitting they should not get left loose--and always go back and double check later to be sure they are tight.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

"Rome wrote:

Which side is it?

it is on the right side as you face the rear of the tractor.

Remove the whole fill assembly, I think it just threads into the rear face. Get it on the bench, you’ll win.

Have fun!
Bernie

"bernie" wrote:

Remove the whole fill assembly, I think it just threads into the rear face. Get it on the bench, you’ll win.

Have fun!
Bernie

it is the drain plug not a fill plug. and i have a winch.

I would try a longer bar and use a breaker bar, that side you have to pull up on the wrench. Or locate a 3/4" impact. May have to back it on some blocks to raise the back up to get some more room to work.

"Rome wrote:

I would try a longer bar and use a breaker bar, that side you have to pull up on the wrench. Or locate a 3/4" impact. May have to back it on some blocks to raise the back up to get some more room to work.

i have already tried the impact. i think i will back it up on some blocks then warm it up and get a good cheater.

When removing plugs like this I heat the area around the plug so the metal expands away from the plug i.e. like heating a rim to put on a wagon wheel except backwards. I heat an area about 4" away from the plug if possible so the plug it self does not heat up as much.