I need help with removal procedure on d6 9u wet clutch. If anyone has pics and procedures I would appreciate Chris

You need the book because I need to read the book every time after doing at least 6 times.


But the short to story. Remove pony flywheel.Working through the top hatch remove bolt holding clutch to diesel flywheel.Know idea how many without the book. Remove all the out side bolts,it will not fall off. At least the dowels always fight me. Lift from the bolts that hold the cover on the hatch. All kinds of other "little" details like removing hand leaver,tin work on dash,etc,etc.


In my humble option the engineer should be both shot and hung for not putting 2 inches more into the frame. But it does fit out by a 1/64 of a inch.But this will bruise your knees and pinch your fingers,and keep you out of other troubles.

Now you need the book so you don't forget the o-rings down inside that let it leak oil out. If your lucky someone may copy the book for you but over my pay grade to figure that out. And don't cuss me for forget a few steps,I told you I cannot remember,but have been to poor to buy a book. But that was pre flea bay days when you payed Cats price or did without. Not that bad a job if your knees hold up working off the track down in a whole.

I am a complete amateur who has installed two clutches on two separate crawlers: a D6 9U ( dry clutch) and TD-15 ( dry clutch)
I did it in the “backyard” so to speak. In both instances I found it worthwhile to build a simple Bar or lift point above the clutch area. ( pipe or square tubing bolted to the fenders) then you can use a come-a long to lift the pony and the cutch parts in and out. I was working by my self, and I am not as strong as oilslick, so I needed to Im- pro- vize.

Wet clutch has to stay together with the cover and put on a bench to take apart to put new parts in. So lifting equipment needed. But you need a way to move away from tractor once it is up out of the whole.