Hello All,


I have a D69U I purchased a few years ago, finally getting around to doing something with it. Over the past 3 weeks, I've been cleaning and working on the steering gear. This includes using kerosene to clean out the brake cavities under the seat. I did remove the drain plugs, as many have suggested on this forum, and plan to leave them out. My issues seem to be compounding...

1. First off the steering booster, with the 2 levers, seems stuck, hard to operate. I can move the levers however they are VERY stiff...take a lot of effort to move them. I've not removed the booster pump yet, but plan to soon. Is there any tips or tricks I should be watching out for?

2. While cleaning the brake cavities, I saw the hydraulic connections on each side. I'm not clear on where the fluid goes, however it looks like the brakes are being bathed in oil. I'm assuming this is coming from the steering booster pump system? Thoughts on why this fluid keeps coming out?

3. I was actually able to move it yesterday. Seems the drive is only working on the right hand side (as you side in the operator seat). The foot brakes seem to hardly be working. At times the left side seems to work, then it stops. Could all this be due to steering clutch issues?


I'm pretty handy with cars/mechanics etc... the larger old iron is a little intimidating... I'd not only like to get this 100%, but I'd also like to see if anyone is somewhat local and willing to help out in person. Also looking for any thoughts/help online here. I've included some pics for eye candy..

First off, does your booster have any oil in it? Secondly, if it does is your clutch engaged and engine running when pulling back on steering levers? Brakes adjusted?

You should check the booster if he is full oil you need to removed the big plug on rear booster for refill and for the brake ckeck the band if she't freese on brake drum she have to be loosed on drum and the adjustement nut is the long exagone nut on the band and you should have 3 1/2 inch free travell on pedal and the stering cluch adjustement is by the yoke rode cumming from booster with a jam not and you need 3 3/4 inch free travel on top stering cluch levers

There’s not really any hydraulics in the steering clutch compartments. Maybe you’re looking at the grease lines running to the Steering clutch release bearings. If oil is leaking down onto the clutches, it would be coming from leaking seals on the steering booster output shafts. Oil leaking from the booster pump and reservoir leaks into the bevel gear compartment in the center of the tractor. If you remove the whole steering booster unit from the sticks and plungers on back, and flip it over. you will see the square pump and reservoir bolted to the bottom of it.

"juiceman" wrote:

First off, does your booster have any oil in it? Secondly, if it does is your clutch engaged and engine running when pulling back on steering levers? Brakes adjusted?

I'm not sure, i just got the needed 1 inch allen sockets in from Amazon today, I'll check. What should the oil level be?

"ccjersey" wrote:

There’s not really any hydraulics in the steering clutch compartments. Maybe you’re looking at the grease lines running to the Steering clutch release bearings. If oil is leaking down onto the clutches, it would be coming from leaking seals on the steering booster output shafts. Oil leaking from the booster pump and reservoir leaks into the bevel gear compartment in the center of the tractor. If you remove the whole steering booster unit from the sticks and plungers on back, and flip it over. you will see the square pump and reservoir bolted to the bottom of it.

That would make sense. When I tried to operate it after cleaning the break cavities, oil came right back to the same location. Its probably coming form the steering clutch then? I'm also concerned about the main drive. When I was moving it around yesterday, only the right side track seemed to have "DRIVE" applied to it. The left side seemed to just be rolling along. Thoughts?

"ccjersey" wrote:

There’s not really any hydraulics in the steering clutch compartments. Maybe you’re looking at the grease lines running to the Steering clutch release bearings. If oil is leaking down onto the clutches, it would be coming from leaking seals on the steering booster output shafts. Oil leaking from the booster pump and reservoir leaks into the bevel gear compartment in the center of the tractor. If you remove the whole steering booster unit from the sticks and plungers on back, and flip it over. you will see the square pump and reservoir bolted to the bottom of it.

I guess I just need to pull the booster pump and rebuild it, assuming its full of oil. At the very least it sounds like its leaking into the brake/clutch cavities, causing the brake band to get wet with oil. Thoughts?

I'm in the middle of the same job. Start with this thread from 2007.

www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?368-D6-9...+9U+steering+booster

I opened this thread last week. Old Magnet is a great help and a wealth of information.

www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?33914-Th...-Seal-Retainer-4R-D6

Have fun.

After you have oil in the booster,before you start taking things apart.

1 The booster only has power when the master clutch is engaged with engine running.

2 If there is any dirt/junk preventing one of the steering leavers from retracting all the way the other will not receive any boost pressure.


3 Find the adjusting of steering clutches. All the important adjusting is inside the case. Don't adjust on the external adjustment of the leavers until all else is correct.

The hoses you see inside are to grease the throw out bearing on each steering clutch. No hoses involved with the booster all parts are inside the booster unit.


But sadly you could be in need of repairing the steering clutches brakes and booster. But get the information to get things adjusted before just start scattering things. Some times you get lucky.

Have you thought about buying a Operators Book for the tractor, and maybe a service book, those things are cheap off fleabay, sure makes everyones life a bit easier if you lay out 20 or 30 bucks to help the old D6 back into life.......