Here are the instructions from Servicemens Reference Book- Form 30524-1 with a date of 4-56-. It says to press both bearings flush on the inside with the holes aligned, then drill, ream, & install the dowel. The crank will be centered correctly. I'm not saying other methods haven't been successful, only that I have done it the book way & the machine still works fine, of course nothing can be made "sailor proof" as we used to say. Also see the passages about the end clearance & how it is regulated.

Neil and Stephen - thanks for your insight. That helps a lot. The bearings were installed by the machine shop and the front bearing is pretty close to flush to the inside of the block. I've measured the play with a dial caliper and it shows about .1" or about 3/16" of play. It is outside the specs for allowable end play, but I'm wondering if I should go in and mess with it. Looks like if I do, my options are to 1) purchase a new bearing and set it closer towards the inside of the block, or 2) add shims to take up the excess gap. Thoughts?

Didn't that fellow "Uncle Charlie"(?) from Wisconsin(?) 4 or 5 years ago, have one where he made a "Shoulder Bearing" (Thrust Spacer)?
I remember reading a Thread on making custom Bearings that had a shoulder machined on them to set thrust?
Or am I out in Left Field??

"Cat wrote:

Neil and Stephen - thanks for your insight. That helps a lot. The bearings were installed by the machine shop and the front bearing is pretty close to flush to the inside of the block. I've measured the play with a dial caliper and it shows about .1" or about 3/16" of play. It is outside the specs for allowable end play, but I'm wondering if I should go in and mess with it. Looks like if I do, my options are to 1) purchase a new bearing and set it closer towards the inside of the block, or 2) add shims to take up the excess gap. Thoughts?

With that much end play, I question if the crank gear has been drawn up to the shoulder. If it has, then check to see where the metal is missing from. Measure the length of the bearing and compare to a new one. If the crank shoulder has been ground down you might need a spacer to restore the correct end position.

As Neil said make a new whole for dowel. That is what the old timers did when my pony was overhauled 30+ years ago.

maybe i missed it, but what is the endplay spec in thousands of an inch?

-automotive experience again......006-.010"....?

Hi Team,
posted yet again. 0.010" to 0.015", Max 0.025"
Cheers,
Eddie B.

"drujinin" wrote:

Didn't that fellow "Uncle Charlie"(?) from Wisconsin(?) 4 or 5 years ago, have one where he made a "Shoulder Bearing" (Thrust Spacer)?
I remember reading a Thread on making custom Bearings that had a shoulder machined on them to set thrust?
Or am I out in Left Field??

drujinin, I think this is the thread you are referring to from Uncle Rich - www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?17425-D2...haft-thrust-bearings