With the lockdown in place in NZ finally getting round to pulling the engine out of the basket case D4C. Book says to take clutch out with engine, this one has the wet clutch. Anyone got any tip for removing the coupling? Have undone the bolts and retainer, following the manual seems to suggest that the drum needs move back towards the gearbox but not altogether clear!. Drum doesn't want to move and whilst coupling is loose it won't slide out enough to clear the drum so that the 2 halves can be removed, any ideas? Now that the retainer has been removed could the engine pulled out forward.
D4 is 24A series but serial number plates are missing so not sure of serial number.

Are you getting the coupling to open enough to clear the ring on the end of the transmission input shaft? Don't forget to remove the small bolt the holds the pump suction intake and the pipe.

"Old wrote:

Are you getting the coupling to open enough to clear the ring on the end of the transmission input shaft? Don't forget to remove the small bolt the holds the pump suction intake and the pipe.

Coupling is not opening enough to clear the ring on the input shaft. Haven't applied any force to try to split as not sure and didn't want to break it.

You just need to knock on coupling with a hammer ,a big key is on shaft

I believe there are also a couple of dowel pins in the coupling halves that also help hang it up.

"Old wrote:

I believe there are also a couple of dowel pins in the coupling halves that also help hang it up.

Thanks Guys, will give it a try again today. Hopefully get it to open enough to move past the gearbox input shaft.

Tractor is in a bad way lot of rust. Does anyone know if either D4D or D4 7U track frames will fit a D4C?, not many D4C's being broken but have seen both of the others being parted out.

Hi Team,
I feel the above drum can be slid rearwards off its mounting flange and clear of the splines of the split coupling.
Once the drum is clear of the coupling halves they should part easily--one half will be tight on a pair of keys--one in each shaft-- and the circlip that stops the coupling halves moving on the shafts and moving rearwards during operation.
I stand to be corrected.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Your right edb that's how the 7U oil clutch comes apart too.

"Rome wrote:

Your right edb that's how the 7U oil clutch comes apart too.

Thanks will try to get drum off. There's no way the coupling is going to come out without doing something different. Drum seems to be tight on the flange are they pressed on?

Hi Gary,
it should be a light interference fit on the shaft flange to maintain concentricity.
You may need to close the coupling back up again as I could see that the splay of the coupling splines would interfere --be bigger than --the drum bore.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.