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Any help on laplant-choate pull pan id??

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4 years 6 months ago #214294 by ccjersey
Note that the front door (apron?) locks the ejector when it’s all the way down/closed. The cable must lift it a little before the ejector cylinder can stroke.
Note the cylinders are large bore designed for about 1000 psi hydraulics

Add note 1 and note two and you can see that it’s possible to severely damage the ejector when using a farm tractor with modern hydraulics. All it takes is a broken cable and the rear/ejector cylinder will push through the ejector or bulge the cylinder wall.

If you’re going to use it as designed, it helps to have the tires at max pressure so it doesn’t suck into the cut so bad. It’s quite possible to stall a 200 plus HP MFWD tractor while loading at normal speeds. You had better be in a gear with throttle set so the tractor will spin out or be quick on the clutch! That being said, in our heavy ground a power shift MFWD tractor of that size is much more productive than a seemingly more practical 120-150 hp one.

In light ground you can do a lot more with a small tractor. The center/frost bit helps a lot too.

D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time:D

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4 years 6 months ago #214307 by Cdcompton
Thanks everyone this model must be the allis chalmers version the only 2 colors on this was a dark burnt red orange color and an allis orange so i made my own with a dash of red and cat yellow mainly old cans laying around the shop. It does have a 2" leading center cutting edge im guessing that is the frost bit you all are refering to some one has reversed the cutting edges but ran them alittle far past what they should have before doing it but they didnt get into the bottom of the pan so bolt holes are good. The top off the edges are gone and the dirt is going to wear above the edge entering into the bowl i want to find/ make new edges or add a piece of bar stock across the top to gaurd the bowl heres some update pics i did already remove valve stem gaurds and check tire pressures before paint but didnt think about squating or hogging while loading good tip i love when old equipment comes with the dealer tags on them that is a bonus just wish i had the data plate on it

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4 years 6 months ago #214325 by ccjersey
Looking sharp!

Mine was also yellow when we got it some 40? years ago. I remember we were told it was an AllisChalmers pan but then looking it over we found the Laplant-Choate tag. I haven’t ever noticed there was another color under the yellow so I think it was original.

I’ve had to have the rear cylinder repaired because of the problem with the cable and I think just tightened the rod packing gland on the front ones. I remember thinking it was going to be a job to repair the front cylinder but I think it was just an adjustment. It’s been a long time and memory isn’t serving at the moment.

We used this behind a JD 5020 mostly over the years though I remember doing some light grading/landscaping type work behind our 4020. Best of all was the 4955! My frost bit is worn back nearly even with the side bits so that may be the reason why it takes so much tractor. Our dirt is mostly a very heavy prairie clay so that is a huge factor in the draft required.

D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time:D

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4 years 5 months ago #214768 by svoght
Was interested to see the Flesh- Miller dealer tag in one photo. Flesh Miller was the Allis-Chalmers distributer for most of Indiana. They inherited the Allis Chalmers line in 1945. That is the year Mac Allister Machinery quit Allis Chalmers and became Caterpillar dealers.

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