Recent bought a 7e, 48a, 9----serial number, sight unseen, was told of the problem, upon getting it home, pulling the transmission dipstick, the oil is murky. Up on checking it over, it will still move, but when pulling it into gear, it acted like the transmission wasn t pressuring up, also no steering clutches. Is it possible that it just needs a trans oil change? Can anyone tell me how many gallons the transmission holds? Also how many screens, or strainers/ filters are in it. Any other suggestions on what I should check? The motor seems strong, has been changed to glow plugs and direct start. Thanks for any advise.

Check steering pump

Hi, broken 1961.
Before you check anything else, check the transmission filter and magnetic screen, the 'cheap' fixes. If the oil is 'murky', I would suggest changing that too as there are some pretty fine tolerances in those transmissions and 'murky' oil is seldom clean oil.. Then look at the pump pressures and flow rates.

Just my 0.02.

If the oil is milky check the engine coolant also, may have an oil cooler leaking.

thx guys, I suspect the oil cooler was installed incorrectly, will be draining the oil , and water, and removing the cooler, it looks like it was replaced recently,
any idea what the pressure on the pump should be? Transmission pressure is definitely down, she will move, but kicks out of gear, but made it's way into the shop for winter.
Thx Scott

Hi Scott,
the trans. valves have a safety feature that when the system pressure gets below about 100 psi a big compressed spring will push the operators trans control lever back to Neutral if the pressure remains below the 100 psi for more than 15 seconds.


NOTE---
If you need to fit a new trans/steering pump be sure to grind about 0.060" of the end of the pump drive spline.
The inner spline in the accessory drive will have a wear step worn in its splines and it is not unknown to fail anew pump in short order due to the new pump shaft splines abutting hard into the worn wear step ends of the inner splines.

If a new cooler was fitted and the total system, lines, filters, screens, including the actual Torque Converter itself about maybe 4 to 5 gallons and not just the Torque Converter/Engine Flywheel Housing screen drain--about 2 to 3 gallons, there would still be a fair volume of contaminated oil in the rear end and controls/ lines etc. that will discolor new oil quickly.
Not sure if there are dead end pockets up in the engine mount casting areas of the flywheel housing that crud/water can sit in too and not be flushed without removing the T/Converter and physically getting in them to remove the dead fluid.
Not sure if there are additives to soak up the water in a flushing oil--others may know of something.

If you remove the T/C be sure to remove the T/C scavenge pump before removing the unit or else the T/C can drop down onto the scav. pump drive gear and bend its drive shaft---

Pays to use cheapest oil to flush system before putting in the good stuff.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

There are lots of places crud can hide in the transmission and flywheel housing, flush out with 50/50 oil/diesel mix, then drain and refill, but don't work it with diesel in. Diesel will mix with water.

Thx guys, all great advise, picked up a reman trans pump as well, looks like a new oil cooler, but debating weather to get another one, may wait an see if it was improperly installed. Thx again Scott

"Rome wrote:

If the oil is milky check the engine coolant also, may have an oil cooler leaking.

Hi Rome K/G, just wondering if the oil cooler is on the suction, or the pressure side of the transmission pump?

Oil flow from the pump sees a number of functions before flowing to the torque converter and the torque converter outlet relief valve then controls flow to the oil cooler so I guess you could say it is on the pump supply/pressure side.