If the rack will slide forward and back it is not in shutoff

I would check that the rack is free to move by testing it with a finger after setting the pump in a normal horizontal position as it is installed on the engine. Without the governor spinning the only force you normally have moving the rack is the governor spring which can be stretched by the throttle control and tends to pull the rack toward the front of the engine.. I could not say whether this is strong enough to move the rack up against gravity. Once the governor is spinning the flyweights exert a force opposing the governor spring and tending to lower the fuel rate by moving the rack to the rear. The idle cutoff mechanism can be adjusted so it will not cam over but at idle speeds close to normal, the throttle lever will force the rack to cutoff and the cam will flip over and held by the spring will lock the rack in its rearmost position.

CCJersey you were right we took of the govnor side and rear plates and noticed that the fuel stop wasn't moving. We pushed and prodded and also moved the low and high idle adjuster up and down and them the rack moved farther. The machine started first try. We also turned one of the injector lines out toward the track and connected the injectors old and new and got nothing then went to the govnor.

The forum is great with all the help from everybody we had success in getting my D6 -9U running. Old Magnets information on electric start conversion worked great and CC thanks for your help.

I have the old pony motor complete with rebuilt mag and starter pinion that I would give to anyone that could use it. It has no compression.

I have other questions does the fuel stop plunger stick often. Also how do you ck rpm's when adjusting the high and low idle adjusters. Now that it has started I'm not sure when throttled up it that it is running as fast as before.. I will put a load on it and see if the govnor works.

Thanks again guys for a great source of information

I have found the safest and easiest way to check rpm is with a laser or photo tachometer. Stick a chunk of shiny adhesive tape on the front crankshaft pulley and point the tach it as the engine rotates to read rpm. You can find a cheap imported unit for around $30-40 on ebay. Might ask around and borrow something similar.

I believe there is a small cover on the hour meter drive that you can put a contact type mechanical tach on but if I remember correctly, it turns half speed so your reading must be doubled to get engine rpm.

I may have said already, but usually the rack sticks because a pump plunger is stuck, but the shutoff cam in the governor has been known to give trouble as well. Usually a strong jerk on the throttle will snap it over center but sounds like yours was more than that.

I hope your governor is good. I have operated one with an unresponsive governor and one with a good one and can tell you its a lot more productive exercise when the governor works right. The thing I noticed first was i could drive the tractor around at an idle using the brakes to turn and the governor would open up as needed to keep the rpm stable or at least the engine didn't stall. Then it made a huge difference in how often I stalled the engine while grubbing stumps..

Last time we discussed this I had everything running .except the Governor wasn't responding under a load. I shut it off and was going to check high and low RPMs. Now it seems to be doing the same thing fuel rack is not opening. You mentioned that the shut off cam may have went over center. Should when opening the fuel rack with the lever to start should it make a sound like a ratchet sound or should it be smooth? What could be worn/broke / or out of adjustment to make this happen again.

Thanks
First Cat

Should be a ratchet sound. Before you put the gov control linkage on the governor control housing, bolt and clamp lever, did you turn the splined shaft to the shut off position first? This sets the position for the rest of the throttle linkage.

Should feel/hear the ratcheting as you move the control. If not, that is in the circular part just behind the lever on the governor. You have to remove the lever and the cover over that ratchet mechanism to gain access the governor from the side. There’s a screw hidden behind that circular cover that must be removed to open up the governor and see the shut-off stop and lever.

Here is the first of several videos on YouTube that shows how that TYPE of injection pump works, problems and advice. squanch253 dose a great job showing teardown and rebuild. It is the same principle but you will need to research your specifications but the adjustments are made the same way..
They are tricky but when you see how they are done it is rather simple.. The governor sets on the backside of the fuel pump which negates the linkage forward of the fuel filter housing. A good manual is the "Serviceman's Reference Book for Caterpillar Fuel Injection Pump Housings." if you can find one on eBay. It has great charts on different Housing types and specs.
Good Luck