SJ -CCjersey all that may want to respond. I am about to put the engine back in my R2 that tore up the clutch. I have thought a lot about what happened. The only thing i can come up with is that when i had the flywheel off and reinstalled i did not get it [tight] [it was not straight in line with end of crank] any others ideas. I have put a dial indcator on it this time an run out is .05 tho. Thanks:)
catrat

Are you sure you have the TDC marks properly aligned. IF it mattered on the alignment, you would be assured of going back to original factory install position if you get the TDC marks back right. They will go on wrong.

Just another thing to check, are there dowel pins or bushings in place where they are supposed to be in the clutch housing/engine and clutch housing/transmission case joint?

Ran into a problem installing the flywheel on a D333 engine a while back, every time we bolted it up, the engine would lock up. Take it back off and it would free right up again. Finally realized we had a NEW block which didn't have the dowel pins in the rear flange so the clutch housing wasn't properly centered around the crankshaft flange. Went and cut/broke the dowel pins out of the old block and installed them and it went perfectly after that.

In your other posts about this clutch, you mention that there was a problem with a pump drive shaft that caused you to have to reset the position of the engine somehow. What was that?

CC no i did not check the timeing marks[But i will] There is no dowel pin on it.The other problem was that when i put it togather i did not get the set of dogs lined up that go through to turn the pump and had to pull it out again[did learn from that one] Thanks
catrat

The 5J parts book shows 2 dowel pins a little below half way down on each side of the transmission case face. part number is S-1177

also see a bushing on the clutch housing picture that seems to stick out enough that it might act as an alignment fixture. 2A3658 Not sure what that is.

CC i guess i did not fully understand your question. There are two dowels on the bell houseing as you said about half way down both sides, I checked the timeing marks today and i must have had a angel on my shoulded when i put in the flywheel. It is right in time:cool:
Thanks
catrat:)

Hi catrat,
is the measurement you have posted at 0.050" the total indicator reading (twice the error) or the actual error,(half of the TIR) ie, the amount you need to move the components relative to each other to get 0.000" indicator movement ?

My D2 SRB gives flywheel runout specs at :- Outside dia. max. 0.006" (0.012" TIR), and Flywheel face max. 0.006" also. These are measured with the indicator mounted on the flywheel housing and the pointer on the flywheel faces and the crank rotated 1 turn and readings noted at their max. and min. dial readings.
This would indicate that your 0.050" is much to far out of spec. and is the most likely cause of your problem.
Also given is the max. runout for the flywheel housing at :- bore 0.010" (0.020" TIR) and face 0.010" also, these are measured with the indicator on the flywheel and the pointer on the flywheel housing faces and the crank rotated.
Hope you can follow this description and that it helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

EDB that is what it shows mounted on the houseing and touching the flywheel in one turn. I ain't no good at them small numbers it is 4 to 5 thousands in one turn. goes up to 4-5 and back to 0 going around.That is what my machinest neighbor tells me. He says that is not very much. My spelling ain't much better.
Thanks
catrat

Hi catrat,
the readings you have posted last are within spec. and will be good to run.
You are lucky to have a machinist neighbour to look over your readings, as he says it is "very little" Actual correction to get a zero reading in your case is 0.002"-0.0025" this is way under the 0.006" of the spec. dimension.
Those pesky dial indicators can be confusing to read down in the bowels of a flywheel hsg. especially when trying to read them with a mirror and upside down.
Good luck with the rebuild.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Thanks EDB and all the others for advise on this one. Trying to get it all near right this time or as near as i can on a 60+ year old machine. Hope to set it in with in the next week. And here that bark again have about 1/2 acre to get pushed off for a slope in my new [estate] Lawn tractor don't like that 3 foot drop when cutting the weeds:confused:
catrat