I am starting the restoration on my 8T grader this week and have found a few problems with the pony.

1. Fuel tank rusted through- I have searched used parts but if it comes back unavailable I was planning to put a universal type Briggs tank on the bracket and run 1/4 fuel line to the existing fuel line at the threaded fittings as I understand they are not standard pipe thread. Is there a better way?

2. Exhaust pipe cross piece rust-through. Manifold intact. Engine turns freely. If I remove the manifold to remove the debris, should I risk ending the pony work there after an oil change or do I just pull the whole thing and rebuild it? Experiences?

3. I pulled the carb and it is awaiting a rebuild kit from carb parts.

4. If I pull the pony, can I just drain the coolant and oil in the pony or do I have to drain the entire cooling system in order to avoid a bath?

Any help offered would be appreciated- Thanks.

I believe the coolant is shared between the pony and main engine. You should drain both.

Not sure on carb line fitting sizes,
Any fuel tank should work.
Carb rebuild is prob a good idea. Maybe just a good cleaning and new gaskets.
Pony rebuild Dunnkno, might check for compression and also crank end play. Both are usually worn in old pony engines.

Good Luck!

I'm sure mre knowledgable folks will chime in soon. Sunday is usually slow on this list till later in the day.

Al

you need to drain coolant from the big motor d318 and just drain poney oil.

I will check the compression and the end play on the cab side with a runout gauge, but my real concern was whatever debris found its way into the case. My SR Book for the 8T doesn't give end play specs. Does .003-.007 work? Thanks.

Pony end thrust desired spec. is 0.010 - 0.015 and max. is 0.025.

I'd pull the pony heads first and have a look, along with results of end thrust check before pulling for rebuild.

Carb. and tank threads are 1/8 in pipe but Cat does use odd ferrule fittings.

If tank isn't totally gone, you can clean and reline with splashing compound so it will still fit under the hood, etc. Great for those that are just full of rust too. While your carb and tank are off, you may be able to fabricate an exhaust manifold without the danger of fire from the gas. I am planning to do some someday.

Upon further inspection, there is rust sitting inside the exhaust manifold from the rusted out pipe(s), so I'll have to pull that off anyway. The fuel tank bottom is completely rusted out- there is no bottom, just the bracket remains. I might just end up having the pipe fabricated. Thanks.