acmoc

ACMOC Membership Benefits

  • FREE quarterly magazine filled with content about antique Caterpillar machines
  • FREE classified listings
  • ACMOC store discounts and specials
  • Full Bulletin Board Access
    • Marketplace (For Sale/Wanted)
    • Technical Library
    • Post attachments

$44 /year ELECTRONIC

$60 /year USA

$77 /year International

50,s D8 14a Help BRING HER BACK TO LIFE

More
16 years 11 months ago #9846 by brentop
Ok here goes,I have 14a d8,been sitting 10+ years,stack was not covered,although has a 90 curve stack so i dont think it would have got an excessive amount of water in that way,just humidity,located in the s.east.The rundown is,main eng. appears to be stuck,ive pulled pony motor off a couple years ago to work on,ive tryed prying on flywheel at pinion hole, then followed old magnets advice from other thread and started prying at timing hole.Main clutch engagement was froze up,as it had been raining down in it due to inpection cover off of it ,sooo,i sprayed some kroil down in there trying to prevent getting too much on brake and disk hopefully,and managed to finally free engagement mechanism up,it appears to be engaging and disengaging,although i guess it is still poss. clutch is not fully freed up.Yesterday,thinking clutch was probally freed up and eng. still seized,i pulled all nozzles out and sprayed 4 cans of kroil down on top of pistons,nozzles on cyl. 4 and 5 seemed to have just a little rust starting on them,wiped right off with rag,but indicates to me that may be where i have rings stuck etc.CC jersey has responded earlier before i started this thread and mentioned that problem may be in clutch or trans. froze up,and he advised to try to put everything in neutral and try to bar clutch over to eliminate that,so i did but dont know if i was trying to bar in right place,i was thinking u woulnt be able to do this if eng. locked b/c clutch is bolted to flywheel....right,anyways i tried with no success couldnt get any more movement than i do on flywheel which slight smidgett.This tractor did roll freely abt.4 years ago when we drug it of lowboy. As i stated to cc jersey earlier in reply,i am cert. diesel mech. but never worked on equip.especially anything this big and old,but i am determined and really wont to bring this old girl back to life and hear her sound off!! I have intentions of cleaning up property on family farm i live on.I would greatly appreciate any advice anyone could give me on getting through this process,i just dont have any real crawler exp. and i know a lot of you guys do,and can give me some good advice and hopefully step me through it,please help!!! 2 stupid quest for ya 1 where can i find my serial # 2 which way do you push clutch lever on main to disengage or engage PS.I do have pretty good serv. manual on this trac. that came with it that i can use for reference. THANKS AGAIN FOR ANY HELP!!!

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
16 years 11 months ago #9848 by catskinner
Replied by catskinner on topic Serial Number
The serial number is located on a tag on the upper left rear corner of rear end of tractor. If tag is gone, scrape the paint and the number should be embedded in the iron. The other place to look for is on left rear side of motor back in behind the pony motor but to the right of the pony motor. catskinner

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
16 years 11 months ago #9852 by SJ
Replied by SJ on topic Clutch
To disengage the clutch you push it ahead & pull back to engage it.To shift into gears you push the lever ahead with some force to brake things in there & then back for drive or engaging.It has to snap in with some force when the clutch is adjusted right when you pull back on the lever.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
16 years 11 months ago #9859 by ccjersey
You're right about the clutch being bolted solid to the flywheel. I was thinking it was twin disc style used on the small tractors where the disk is the only part that engages the flywheel and the clutch pressure plate mechanism spins with the transmission input shaft.

Does the 14A have a very short shaft with 2 U-joints between the clutch and transmission? If so, that should turn whenever the transmission in in neutral and the clutch is disengaged unless there is a rear mounted winch problem. A winch drive should couple to the transmission input shaft somehow. It would probably take a short bar to roll the shaft over even if the clutch isn't stuck. That tractor should have an oil bath clutch??? so less likely to be stuck.

Anyway, it's a long shot on the transmission etc. being the source of the trouble.

If you can't find any tags, the places where the tags were should be recognizable by the 4 holes where drive in screws/rivets were used to attach the tags.

D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time:D

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
16 years 11 months ago #9885 by brentop
Thanks for everyones input,as a update I did manage to eliminate there being a clutch or trans etc. problem causing it to be seized,I can spin the tail shaft coming out of t.converter,i tried baring eng. over a couple more times yesterday with no sucess,im gonna give the kroil a few more days or longer and see if i get lucky,I do feel like its rings stuck b/c i do have a little movement at flywheel,if this doesnt work i will probally go ahead and pull heads by next weekend.Thanks again!!!!

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
16 years 11 months ago #9891 by pasochris
brentop,

I've been going through the same thing with a 1h, which I believe is essentially the same as your machine. I was lucky because the clutch was disassembled when I got the tractor. The engine was stuck bad though, and I ended up pulling the heads and using a bottle jack to force the flywheel to turn and drive the pistons and sleeves out of the block. OM cautioned that doing this may damage the crankshaft, so it's probably not a good idea. Hopefully you will be able to get it loose and save yourself pulling the heads.

Good luck with your project,

Chris Clarke

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
16 years 11 months ago #9892 by SSsssteamer

as a update I did manage to eliminate there being a clutch or trans etc. problem causing it to be seized,I can spin the tail shaft coming out of t.converter,


The 14 A still had the standard clutch. The 15 A is the first year that used the converter.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
16 years 11 months ago #9893 by SJ
Replied by SJ on topic Clutch
The 14A has an oil clutch which started to be used on late 2Us & the 13As. Those old dry clutches like in the 2U was pulled around by links that were held on by pins in the flywheel.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
16 years 11 months ago #9894 by brentop
Replied by brentop on topic serial # on tractor
Thanks to everyone who replied,I may be wrong about it being 14a,matter of fact i almost know i was,I just have managed to get serial # earlier,tag was gone but managed to find it stamped it was still very hard to read b/c it looks like they double stamped it by accident,these are the #s best i can tell>>>15a2986>>>does this sound right if so what can u tell me abt. this tractor,year hp. rating,etc. is this a good machine or was it??? Still trying to get her unstuck,open to suggestions,thanks in advance!!!

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
16 years 11 months ago #9895 by SJ
Replied by SJ on topic 15a
If it is a 15A then that would be torque convertor tractor with a dry clutch.It could be about a 1957 as the 15A 1673 SN came out in 1956 & the HP I don,t have listed here n my book but it,s in the area of 180 to 200 HP if I remember right as I dyno tested lots of them D342 NA engines used in the 14A & 15A tractors.I don,t think the dry clutch in them had quite the life as the 14A wet clutch & you had to use your head operating them with the torque as you needed to use a certain load on them & not a light load in a lower gear. Also if I recall you needed the clutch released (pushed ahead) if it set & was idling.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 0.172 seconds
Go to top