I have a D47u that I am trying to figure out how to adjust the flywheel clutch. I have the Caterpillar "Servicemens' reference book, the diesel engines service manual, and the operation and maintenance manual.
I am on pg. 77 of the maintenance manual for those who have it.
I have loosened the adjusting collar clamp bolt and I have the trans. in gear.
The adjusting collar seems to just spin, doesn't seem to be doing anything. I am working on this with the seat etc. still on and it is very difficult to see or work on. I'm just wondering if I am missing something or not doing something right.
I am also trying to get the steering clutches unstuck. The last time I tried, I got them to work a little, but not very good. {by putting the blade down against a hill and grinding a hole in the ground with the clutch engaged until the track stops.}
This was done last year, {they were stuck solid, and it did break them loose enough that the track stopped, but the steering is still poor. I only did it until the track stopped.}I am again going to try to get the steering working. I have drained the steering clutch compartments and they both had about a gallon of water in them. {very clean not oily. I did not do that last year} I am pretty sure that the discs are not rotted away. The problem I am having is incomplete disengagement. Should I wash the clutches? {Pg. 82 maint. manual} Or should I keep trying the blade against a hill thing to see if they loosen up more? The cat has not had regular use for about 5 years, however it has been started and run about once a year.
I appreciate any suggestions very much.
Thanks, Frank

I own a D-4 7U and I live in Sedro Woolley, Washington. I know exactly what you are going through with rain leaking into the stearing clutches. Been there, done that. My next fix from where you are at is to put the drain plugs back in to the rear housings and fill it with diesel so that the stearing clutches can soak, As I remember, I had well over 25 gallons of diesel before the stearing clutches started to get wet. The adjusting ring on the main clutch tightens in a clockwise direction. Screw it in until your clutch lever takes two hands to force it over center. To properly tighten the bolt on the adjusting ring, it is best to go underneath the Cat and use your socket, extention, and breaker bar to tighten it properly. If you don't tighten from below, it will most likely slip loose while you are using it and then you just have to adjust it all over again. I have a skid plate on the bottom of my D4 and I had to torch a hole in it so that I could tighten from below. Some models have a larger access from above so that you don't have to get out and get under. After your stearing clutches have soaked for a few days, drain the diesel, with the stearing levers tied back, go out there and drop the blade while in low gear and see if the stearing clutches will break loose. I tried riding my brakes to heat up the stearing clutches but that just burned out my brake lining. I eventually had to pull my stearing clutches out and I took them into NC Machinery and had them rebuild them for me. It cost more than I paid for the Cat to have them rebuilt. I have since built a dry shed to store my D4 7U in. I don't let it get rained on any more, and I am keeping my stearing clutches dry. The D4 7U is a kick to operate and it is not all that big so storage isn't that much of an issue either. It is also a real work horse for it's size.

Frank:
The Diesel fuel trick is well worth a try to free up you steering clutches. You will problably have to let them soak for several hours maybe even a day or two. After the soaking job if they fail to free up you most likely will wind up pulling them out and having them rebuilt. General Gear out of Boise ID / tractorparts.com is a good parts scource. You mite want to consider giving your local cat dealership mechanic a call. Another thing to consider if you get them working is to drill a small hole through the housing plug's and put a small cotter key through the hole so it can keep the hole free of dirt, that way the water can get out. Its always best if you can keep the machine sheded or covered up from the elements. Be preapred to spend some money if you go the rebuild route, but once done the tractor should give you years of trouble free service if you keep the water out.
Good Luck
Woody

Alright guys, I have figured out the adjusting collar on my d47u flywheel clutch, but I'm still having a problem. I can get at the adjusting collar from underneath the cat. There is a about 6" square access cover. Much easier. {I don't have a skidplate.}{There is also a access cover on the top, just real hard to get at the collar from it.} I was not the last one to run the cat. I checked, and the problem is that the flywheel clutch lever has no overcenter feel. This seemed to happen all of a sudden after not being run for awhile. Like something might be sticking. That is why it was hard to steer, you had to hold the main clutch and run the steering clutches. I may have the steering clutches broken loose enough, but it was too hard to tell running 3 levers with 2 hands.
You have to hold it, but the clutch was engaging and disengaging O.K..
I adjusted the collar all the way loose, and lost travel on the clutch lever. I adjusted it pretty tight, and also lost travel on the lever. I found a narrow range {just snug, tightening up the collar clockwise} that gave me the most travel of the lever. I still did not have much of a overcenter. Total travel of the lever is only 3" to 5 ". It feels like there should be about 3" more. I adjusted the lever linkage inside the case {the push rod that comes off the bellcrank inside the case} to give me more lever travel, and it seems to have gotten a little better, but nowhere near a "snap" into an overcenter position.
What part of the mechanism provides the over center? Is it the lever linkage or the clutch assembly? I did find a spring that was unhooked that I hooked back up. {inside the case, it seemed to pull the lever towards clutch disengaged. the overcenter being what should keep it engaged.} I broke the rod the clutch lever pushes {outside the case}{been welded before} and will make a new one with a little more threads for adjustment, but I don't think that will do it. It really seems like the adjusting collar is not sliding back and forth enough. But I lubed it, and gave the lever a good pull {broke the rod} and it is real solid. {It does slide, I just don't know if I am getting full travel.} The collar adjusted fairly easily once I figured out what to try to turn. {not frozen.} Also, the range that I got the best lever travel when I adjusted the collar was real small, the collar can only be turned in full turns, so you can still access the nut and bolt that lock it in place.
I will try running it in a day or two, but I don't think it is right yet. Any ideas? By the way, I'm not sure if this should have been a fresh post. If so let me know.
Thanks for your help, and any more ideas!
Frank

Frank,

You wrote
"I broke the rod the clutch lever pushes {outside the case}{been welded before} and will make a new one with a little more threads for adjustment, but I don't think that will do it."

Answer, I think it will. Same happen to me. I would adjust this one before doing any adjusting to rods inside the case. Also the shaft 9F126 is worn amost in half one mine, this makes extra slop. And check for other worn parts like the pins and plates 7B5647 and 7b5693.


You wrote "Also, the range that I got the best lever travel when I adjusted the collar was real small, the collar can only be turned in full turns, so you can still access the nut and bolt that lock it in place."

Answer, Wrong, adjust it to where it feels snug, (I check it by pulling the lever back and then return), then take it out of gear and rotate the trans shaft ( in the direction that won't loosen your adjustment) until you can get back to the locking nut. I will tighten mine maybe 1/4 turn.

If you still have some clutch disk left ( and I think you do) you can get it working.


The same kind of thing might go for your steering clutches. If the pins and rods in your lever assembly are worn you will get a lot of movement at the lever and not much at the clutch release. Try "over" adjusting them from what the book says until you get them working. Then you can put them back if you desire.
It also helps to have good brakes to get it steer. I'd check them and adjust them if needed.

Good luck,
Muzz

The snap over center is in the clutch mechanism, not the linkage. Probably have some wear on pivots and cams in the clutch.

I expect you might be able to adjust at less than 1 complete turn each time by pulling the docompression and put the transmission in neutral and use the engine fan to roll the clutch back to where you can get to the clamp bolt again after you adjust it. Or just bar the clutch back up.

One whole turn may be just too much.

Sounds to me like classic case of worn out clutch linkage plus wear of the over-center clutch mechanism.
The 9f126 shaft that Muzz mentions is very soft steel and major wear has a lot of influence on linkage travel. (Replacements have to be fabricated, no longer available from Cat)
The clevis on the lever outside of the case has no bearing on the over-center action. Just changes the angle of the lever.
The clevis inside the case only adjusts the transmission brake engagement and has no bearing on the over-center action. (unless it's way out of adjustment)

Along with the shaft and bushing wear, the various clevis pins and pin holes need to have minimum slop to deliver the required travel.

Here's an update on the flywheel clutch adjustment. I climbed under that thing so many times it just didn't occur to me to take it out of gear to position the clamp bolt for the adjusting collar on my clutch. I have that adjusted the best I think it will get. I replaced the flywheel clutch lever rod that I broke with one that has more adjustment. {old one had been welded so there was no adjustment, broke at the weld. looked like someone welded it in the field} This I believe just adjusts the lever position. The "pushrod that comes off the bellcrank inside the case" I believe adjusts the clutch brake. The books I have had alot of info that I missed. {looked at them last year and didn't refresh my memory} I was going to post a couple of diagrams that explain this better, but don't know how yet, will post them later.
The "overcenter" is in the clutch as my replies indicated. The "cams" and "links" and the associated pivot points in mine are worn so there is no snap into overcenter. I think it will still work ok. All of the linkage has looseness as well. I will check on parts availability.
I am going to post a question on adjusting my steering clutches, and I will close this when I have run the cat, checked on parts availability, and have figured out how to post pics.

I appreciate all the replies, and all the people that read this post.

Thanks! Frank